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Old 01-27-2013, 03:15 AM   #42
Twin-shocker
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 1,673
Quote:
Originally Posted by KayAitch View Post
I can get a condensor for $25 tomorrow. Is it hard to install? I have the Clymer and Kawasaki manual so I'll have a read.

I thought I would look into the left side/timing cover to see if I could spot it. I couldn't see it but I did note a little bit of grease or oil (not sure) in the bottom of the case. Bad sign? Is this my leak?



The clear smudge is where I ran my finger. There is a bit of grime in there for sure.


You need to check very carefully for any up-down play in the crank. If there is the slightest amount of movement, its going to need new main bearings. Contrary to popular belief crank seals dont generally fail, but will leak if there is any play in the main bearings.


If there is no play, then change points and condenser, and also check resistance of primary and secondary ignition coils. To change these parts you will need the correct flywheel puller, a flywheel holder (or electric/air impact gun), correct size socket, and tools required to remove points/condenser.

After flywheel nut has been removed, screw the puller fully home into the flywheel, then tighten the puller forcing bolt, and when it is tight a sharp blow on the end of the bolt with a medium weight engineers hammer will generally release the flywheel.

When its time to put the flywheel back on, make certain the crankshaft taper and the flywheel itself are scrupulously clean, or there may be problems with flywheel key shearing. Next you need to torque flywheel nut to the proper figure, using a proper flywheel holding tool. Finally set points gap, and check timing, then you will be ready to test.

If at all possible try to get genuine Kawasaki ignition parts, as the Chinese stuff is often very poor quality, and sometimes new condensers dont work properly.
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