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Old 01-27-2013, 02:02 PM   #52
Island Hopper
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: N.V.I, B.C.
Oddometer: 4,352
Originally Posted by Queen of Spades View Post
Have multimeter and manual opened to section on testing ignition coil. Manual provides values for two resistance tests - blue/white to ground, and blue/white to plug wire.

At the top of the ignition coil test section the manual says that I need to "disconnect all wires" before using the ohmmeter to test for the given values.

The specified values KTM provides are

Below this table of values, the manual then says

"Before checking the ignition system check..." and goes on to list whether the ignition is on, the kill switch is on, the neutral light is on, motorcycle can be started with clutch in and that the battery is charged.

What is confusing to me is the seeming incongruence between the introductory paragraph, and the second paragraph. From reading other sites, resistance testing should be done with no voltage present. Is the KTM manual saying the same thing, but to first make sure these other things are OK -- before disconnecting everything?

Assuming I should have the battery disconnected, I'm showing "1. " on the multimeter readout on both tests, using the battery NEG as ground. If I tough the leads together I'm showing ~0.00. The MM is set to Ohms at 20k (the lowest value).

Please advise..

Your not making much progress, I can suggest a few things...

#1- I would recommend that you pop the outer flywheel side cover off and have a look at the stator and pickup coil... Look for any rub spots or shorts in the wires running in and inspect the faces on both the pickup and stator where they read the flywheel for debris scoring...

#2- Sometimes the issues that you describe can be caused by something as simple as a faulty spark plug cap or even the spark plug itself...

#3- When I had similar intermittent problems with my 640 A the problem ended up being some broken wires inside the ignition key switch... With the engine running try gently yanking and wiggling the wires running into the switches base cup to see if it kills the engine...

#4- Make sure you have good routing and slack in the manual decomp cable, I have seen it happen to where this cable gets hung up to where a small movement of the bars lifts the lever arm enough to kill the engine...

#5- If you haven't cleaned the carb, it wouldn't be a bad idea to take it apart, clean and inspect... Look for a visual wear witness ring on the rubber tip of the float needle... Some times a worn float needle can cause erratic running/stalling issues but it usually is not instant like an electrical issue...

Good luck...
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