01-30-2013, 04:11 PM
T plus 16 months
Joined: Jul 2006
Well I haven't had the time or even the desire to update this RR in quite a while. After I finished the ride I left my bike in CO, flew to Seattle to grab my last few possessions and my car and drove back to CO to work for a friends software company. I was going to move to Prague and teach English but the money here (and time to travel) was too good to pass up.
So, on with the Adventure.
I hung out with Alex and his buddy, got barked at by a lot of dogs and caught a local boxing match.
I also came across this great old guy in a bar.
Then it was off to the south. It was a fairly long boring ride to La Paz. I'm going to past in my comments from FB for this part of my trip.
So I wanted to give my impression of the people in MX so far. I was going to tell the story of the pickup truck full of guys who passed me yesterday. We exchanged waves and thumbs up cause they were drinking Modello's in the back. I ran into them down the road a bit and they gave me one and we talked about the bike and where I was from and where I was going. That was cool. But that's not the story I want to relate.
As I was nearing La Paz I was looking for a place to pull over and stretch a leg and adjust my map before entering town. I say a big lot and as I pulled in noticed about 15 bikes there, mostly Harleys. It was a Mexican Biker Gang. Cue ominous music. Actually they were really nice and asked if I wanted to ride into town with them. In town we went to one of their father's house, the leader of the Gang, the Corsairios (Corsairs, I immediately felt at home). After a couple beers they invited me to stay for a bbq and birhthday party and said I could crash there. I wasn't getting a bad vibe from any of them so accepted. Had a great time eating carne and drinking tequila, mescal, and whisky. 2 of the guys were amazing guitar players, especially the 'kid' of the gang, and most of them could sing. We spent most of the night singing Mexican ballads which I didn't know. I even joined in, not very well, with my harmonica. The language barrier was a bit of an issue but a couple of them had some English so we managed.
So for all those people who warned me about the violence of Mexico, pzzzzzzzzt! The biker gangs are friendlier than in the US.
Here we are hanging out and singing the Happy Birthday song in Spanish.
Here's a direct link to the video:
So I crashed on their couch and after a big breakfast they made me (and a shot) it was off on the road to Todos Santos. I took the wrong road, twice, on my way there but eventually arrived. As I was driving around looking for a guest house my bike started making an atrocious noise. Just as I shut it off a head popped over a fence and asked me if everything was alright. A quick conversation later I have a place to stay for dirt cheap at a very nice private bungalow and a garage to work in thanks to expat Dean.
Here's my room which was above the garage.
Turns out the noise was a broken radiator fan blade. Kind of fortunate it was right in the center and not one of the blades so I was able to JB Weld it.
The finished product. Still on the bike and doing fine 14,000 miles later.
I spent a couple days in Todos Santos checking out the beaches and drinking with Dean and his buddies.
Of course I saw the original Hotel California that the Eagles sing about. Nothing special now. Fairly yuppie.
When I went to leave the bike wouldn't start. I quickly determined it was the clutch relay that prevents the bike from starting with the kickstand down. With the help of the internet I spliced that out and was back on the road to La Paz.
I stayed at the Larimar Hotel for 250 pesos which was pretty cheap. It was the first of hundreds of places where they had me bring my motorbike into the lobby for the night.
La Paz isn't much of an interesting town but I did come across a good specialty beer shop/pub, I had a good night talking to the couple that owns the place. Unfortunately I didn't right down the name or street. Maybe someone else has found it and can chime in.
The next day was up, through customs and then a long wait to board the ferry to Mazatlan. A couple things to point out here.
1st, as of Jan 2012, you don't need to do any Importation paperwork for your vehicle for all of Baja and a strip of northern MX along the U.S. border. I did the paperwork in Ensenada but could have done in in La Paz.
2nd, there are 2 ferries from La Paz to Mazatlan and they both carry vehicles. One of them is the very nice passenger ferry. One is the truck ferry. Book well in advance if you want the nice one. They are the same price.
Hanging out waiting for the ferry.
Guess which ferry I got? Yep the truckers ferry. All of the rooms were taken up by truckers and their women. I pitched my tent and had a pretty nice night just behind that white trailer in the center of the photo.
A couple of the truckers spoke English and we swapped tails of the road. I got some good info on what to expect and places to go. Interestingly it seemed that all of their 'girls' were native (non-Spanish descent) that they'd picked up in some tiny village somewhere.
It was pretty heading out of La Paz as the sunset with mainland MX a head of me.
JackL screwed with this post 01-30-2013 at 05:41 PM
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