Here's my post from this day. A bit of repetition but it's good
Man, it's been a few long, hard days so I'm relaxing this afternoon and posting some pics and having a couple Dos Equis'. I left Guanajuato and road hard to Puebla. Mostly toll roads which are fast but expensive. There seems to be no rhyme nor reason to them. Sometimes they're long distances for cheap, sometimes short for expensive. At one point I paid $3 US, went up and around a ramp and back the direction I'd been going (no other on or off ramps) only to pay $4 US less than a mile later. Had a quick tour of Puebla in the evening then up early and on the road.
Decided to ride the free (Libre) road east so dropped SE to Tehuacan no problem. The roads kept getting smaller and crappier (they reminded me of where I grew up) until I turned left at Teotitlan de Flores Magon where I began a climb up a pot-hole infested series of switchbacks which soon turned to gravel. My first thought, since it was 60 miles to the next town was to turn back. Then I thought this is what I'm here for. This adventure. This is why I have a dual-sport motorcycle with knobby tires. On I pressed. Eventually the road turned back into crappy and then better pavement but massively twisty. 1st and 2nd gear stuff with a mountain on one side and nothing but air on the other. I averaged less than 30 mph for about 4 hours.
I think this might have been the steepest, most vertical in a short distance mountain pass I've ever ridden. It might also be the best dual-sport road in MX! As I descended the humidity hit. I'd crossed over to the Caribbean side of MX. I ended up just before sunset, after barely 150 miles, at the little town of Jalapa de Diaz where with the guidance of a local I got a room at the only hotel in town. A cool little place where I found the local watering hole of drunks and got hit on, for the first time in my life, by a great-grandmother. After leaving there I was stopped by the police and escorted back to my hotel so I could show them my ID.
The following day I went 10 miles and found my pannier lid gone. Backtracking slowly I was unable to find it and it wasn't at the hotel where I'd last seen it. I figure it had either slide off into a bush where I couldn't see it of had already become someones grill for their stove. A bit of duct tape to keep my stuff in and I set off on a 340 blast to Paleque where I arrived a little after dark. Broke that rule again. But it's mostly a guideline.