Originally Posted by RuggedExposure
How would one go about checking the valve timing?
Could this be a problem that would slowly creep up out of no where?
I just finished a top end rebuild on my Dr to replace some leaking valve seals. Before you throw that engine back together it would be a very good idea to lap the valves.
Remove the valve springs (you need a special c-clamp like thing to do this), put some valve grinding compound around the edge of the valve, slide it back in the head, then with the suction cup tool twist back and forth till you hear the grinding sound change. Lift, then repeat until the sound basically stays the same. You can get all this at advance, though when I called to ask they had no idea what I was talking about. I would also recommend replacing the valve seals since you have everything apart.
Since the current suspect is valve leakage I would recommend cleaning everything the best you can. Take a wire wheel to the head, valves, and top of the piston (super dense you won't hurt it). You can also do this for the metal header seal. Just be careful not to scrape the aluminum where a tight seal is needed.....
Oh yeah timing. Remove the cover for the top dead center viewer thing. It should be near the front of the left side case cover. Not the cap that looks like it covers the crank. Anyway rotate the engine to TDC or "T" as the indicator will say, Then when you throw the engine back together put the cam on with both "lobes" or whatever you call them, pointing down. Simple. But as someone else said, your cam chain could be over-stretched which caused a link to skip. I don't know how likely this is to happen but check how extended your cam chain tensioner is.
Also check out what happened to my turn signal relay when two badly connected turn signal wires touched.
No but really my turn signals won't work and any tips on the possible culprit would be appreciated.