Originally Posted by k9bite
Here are my concerns.
First, he's the original owner and he had oil burning issues when he first purchased it. The dealer addressed the issue by replacing pistons and rings, which he says resolved the oil burning problem. I've read a little about the 2008 oil burning issue and I was under the impression this procedure didn't fix the problem. The guy is a real motorcycle hobbyist and does a lot of work himself (he's got two older bikes he takes up to Bonneville to compete each year and does the mods himself) so I would think he would have just done the top end rebuild himself if this didn't fix the oil burning issue.
Second, he claims the odometer got stuck at 2,500 miles, so the 9,9XX miles listed in the add is an estimate. I plan to take it to a nearby shop to have it checked out so I should be able to make sure it really isn't 102,500 miles. My concern with this issue is resale value. I'm wondering if I'll have issues selling it myself later.
I'm a pretty good judge of character because of my line of work, my BS meter is pretty accurate and I tend to believe the seller, but you never know for sure.
Lastly, the price is pretty firm, think it is a good price?
Thanks for the advice,
I've seen a number of OEM fixes that did work...and others that didn't. Worse case you can upgrade with an EagleMike big bore kit and be done with it. Relatively inexpensive...
2500 mileage discrepancy is not even a blip on my radar. Fact he told you lends credit to him...
If that is a DynoJet kit installed its running way too rich. Expect mileage in the low 40's...maybe even upper 30's. We can give jetting changes that will work great with that kit.
Its a fair price. I have a buddy about to sell his 08. He has 20K and his was an oil burner to the point the original owner let it run low and toasted the topend. He simply swapped out the engine. He's added some nice suspension upgrades as well as addressed the normal KLR stuff. He'll be asking about the same price.
When/If you purchase...check for deep hole syndrome (all 2008's had it), visually verify Doo lever/spring or best to just upgrade both, pull the rear suspension apart and lube the bearings. The Prolink pivot bolt is first to get seized. Understand how the side stand and clutch safety switch works, maintained and how to disable either/both in the field if needed. The early GenII's have 6 common rub thru points on the wire harness. There are several more that are coming to light. Simply strip the bike down and go thru the entire harness. You'll get years of trouble free service...