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Old 02-06-2013, 06:51 AM   #12
Gerg
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Joined: Dec 2001
Location: Left Coast
Oddometer: 8,324
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul_Rochdale View Post
As the others said, leave the poor thing alone and just get used to riding her and understanding her character. As for the poor ATE brakes, they will never be brilliant but at least you have twin discs. See where the brake master cylinder is. If it's under the tank and mounted on the frame, you can get a kit from Motorworks to mount it on your handlebars. This is far, far better as you will not so easily ignore the brake fluid. Apparently the brakes also work a bit better with the master cylinder on the handlebars. Touring? Did you get panniers with the bike? I see there are no pannier frames in the photos. These shouldn't be too expensive bought secondhand.

They are good bikes, I have a 100/7 which I had twin plugged. This improved the smooth running, exceleration and MPG but that can come later.


One thing I should mention and that's the finned exhaust nuts. Unless these have been properly looked after, they have a tendency of seizing on the male threads of the cylinder head. Do not use anything other than the correct bronze spanner available from Motorworks. When you buy/borrow the spanner ('wrench' to you Merrycans) see if you can at least move the nuts. DO NOT USE FORCE. The threads of the nuts and the studs can and do corrode so if you use force, you WILL regret this as a repair is possible, expensive and unneccessary. If after applying copious amounts of WD40, try boiling water. If they fail to work, you will need to remove the soft alloy nuts by drilling a serious of shallow 1/16" holes between the fins of the nut - don't go too deeply as you will damage the male thread of the stubs. When use have a line of shallow holes, use a really sharp chisel, I use an old broad screwdriver blade sharpened to a sharp edge, then strike the chisel point along the series of holes. Then with a bit of leverage, the nut will spring apart and off the stub leaving the thread intact. You'll then need new nuts of course but they are cheap. Clean up the male threads with a wire brush and Copaslip the new nuts and replace. Don't do it up too tightly (Please don't ask about bloody torque wrenches) and in a years time, undo, clean and re-Copaslip. Simples. I 'restored' the male threads on one of my BM's by grinding a knife edge along a hacksaw blade, and used this to carefully file away along the lines of the thread. It worked and annual re-Copaslipping will prevent any further problems.
Heat is your friend!
I had a hell of a time getting them off of my /7 (still in boxes). Adding heat to JUST the fins so you transfer as little heat as you can to the head and it'll probably come lose. But you still need the spanner
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