View Single Post
Old 02-06-2013, 07:02 AM   #12
MikeO OP
Wage slave...
MikeO's Avatar
Joined: Jul 2002
Location: Scarning, Norfolk, today...
Oddometer: 7,078
Originally Posted by Poolside View Post
Hey there Mike, I hope the fuse turns out to be the solution.

In case it isn't, it might be a flex-to-break problem in the wire loom located at the bending point where the wire loom traverses between the triple clamp and steering head. (If you can even call them that on a telelever. )

I know, why is the dipped beam wiring going to the throttle perch? If I remember right the power supply lead for the headlights first travels to the right side throttle perch.

Inside the perch the power supply lead splits into two leads, one each for the main and dipped beam. The low beam wiring runs up to the handlebar perch because Europe bikes have a 'headlight off' switch for use in well-lit urban areas. (That's what the low-wattage position lamp in the main beam reflector is for.) The US bikes don't have the headlight off switch, but the wiring is there, and there's a jumper plug in place of the switch to route to power to the two headlamps.

Anyway, that steering head flex point is a common cause of shorts and open circuits in the wire loom. I don't know what additional wiring you installed for the HID lamps, but a innocently-placed zip tie could have been the last straw for that steering head bending point.

p.s.: Ordinarily I'm all for that the solution is most often the simplest one, ala Occam's razor. But it looks like you tried all of the simple ones so far.

Hi Poolside,

It was indeed the fuse

I'm going to open up the rear of both headlamps to re-insulate everything in there, as I have a feeling that, with all the extra connections fitted into that small space, it may be that the original connectors have been pushed towards one another and this is perhaps what caused the original short.

My bike (2003) was one of the first UK bikes without a headlamp switch. It doesn't look like the wiring goes to the handlebar switch (it may have in early models) - here's what Ian Hartley found when he was going well above and beyond the call of duty trying to track down the cause of my failure:

Originally Posted by Ian J Hartley View Post
I've done some checking around for you. the wiring on my bike 03 GS twinspark with abs servo brakes cannot be that different from yours.

The instrument lights are powered by the green/blue wire which runs through connector x9003 (12 way). this is the bottom right connector block on the headstock as viewed from above. It's coloured white and opaque. The green/blue runs through the connector at position 12 and connects to the grey/blue wire the other side.

Check for power at the green/blue here to see if the instrument lights are getting power. I suspect not.

The low beam wiring, together with the high beam and front indicators all come together in a loom which runs across the front brace, passing down the left hand side of the bike, passing next to the horn where the horn cable feeds into this loom. this loom then carries on down the left hand side of the bike into the main loom.

I believe that all the green/blue wires connect inside the fuse box. if you know how they make these looms it would be a good place to look. Basically they gather all the green/blue wires which run from every switch and connector and join the whole lot together with a big crimp. This crimp is inside the fusebox.

It's worth undoing the cable ties at the top end of the loom and flex the loom to see if you can get power (possible break in the cable) examine the loom to make sure it hasn't chaffed through. if it's shorted through somewhere, you may well have melted the wire, which could have taken out your instrument lights as well, depending on how the two are connected at the crimp.

You can try a continuity test between the positive low beam and ground to see what resistance you get it should be a very low resitance but not short, this is because the continuity check is also going across the instrument light bulbs. If you disconnect X9003 this will remove the instrument light circuit, then the resistance across the low beam positive and earth should be open circuit.

Now I don't know what HIDs you fitted, but if they are like mine where you use the existing connector and plastic cover, drilling a hole in the rear to pass the HID wiring through a rubber gromet, Then it is likely that you have inadvertantly shorted the positive and earth together inside the cover and fried your wiring.I was concerned enough about this, that when I did my HID's I put an insulation boot on the right angle earth connected, so both the positive and earth were insulated from one another.

If you think about it, this all started after you tried to fit your HID's, so my detuction is somewhere along the length of the green/blue wire from the low beam connector to the load relief relay is a melted piece of wire. My guess is it's in the fuse box, at or near the crimp.

I hope I'm wrong, and it's something simply, but right now I can't see it. I've checked just about everything I can using my bike as a reference, and it's the only conclusion I can come too.

Good luck with this one. I'm off to put my bike back together.
And then later...

Originally Posted by Ian J Hartley View Post
Think I might have found it. On my bike fuse 8 (ABS) also powers the low beam circuit. Pull the fuse and my low beam and instrument lights go out.
Originally Posted by Ian J Hartley View Post
This is where it's likely to get confusing, because the layout for the R1150GS single spark, and the twin spark are different.

On the twin spark
Fuse 8 does only the low beam and instrument lights.
Fuse 9 does the ABS warning.

On the single spark
Fuse 8 not used
Fuse 9 not used.

At least we know the fuse wiring for the twin spark.
Needless to say, I owe Ian a few beers...

All text & original photos Mike Oughton 2004 - 2015
MikeO is offline   Reply With Quote