Thread: XR650R Thread!
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:31 PM   #16035
ride4fun562
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Joined: Sep 2012
Location: CA
Oddometer: 198
Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
"Valve adjustment for noobies"

'Ere ya are mate, and note this is a com-ple-te-ly different procedure than Honda prints in their manual - however a lot more easy:

Make sure the engine is cold.
Take off tank, and wash the engine's top & framebits as the bare minimum.
Take off the valve covers first, then take out plug (so the small bolts cannot fall into the cylinder - duh).
Put bike on a stand (jack, not sidestand), and put it in 5th gear.
Rotate the rear wheel forward - on this, do not EVER rotate it backwards or allow it to turn back (block it with a piece of wood through the spokes or whatever) as even a little of this will mess with the auto-decomp system on this bike which will lift an exhaust valve!! So no 'back', nothing!
Turn rearwheel fwd until you've convinced yourself that first the intakes go down, then up, and next the exhaust valves do ditto (hey, you said 'noobies' )
Turn even more forward, but maybe slower this time, until you actually notice that at a certain point, just when the intakes come up again, the exhaust valves ALSO start to move - which is correct, any 4stroke does this, not to worry.
Now rotate the wheel slow, very slow, until the exhaust valves are just about at their deepest point... then stop rotating, and block the wheel if necessary.
Now adjust the intake valves as per below.
To adjust the exhaust valves you turn (again, always forward only) the wheel until the intake valves are somewhere at their deepest point. As a sidenote, the exhaust valves are more difficult to reach on this bike, less handspace available.

Adjusting valves.
Valveplay is to be: Intake: 0.15mm (0.006"), Exhaust 0.20mm (0.008").
The valves to adjust will have some play, they are loose, which can be felt, so check this, move the rocker up & down - see? If no play make sure (by rotating rear wheel forward, see above) that the other valves are quite a bit down if not fully down. If this is the case but you still feel no play then know you did postpone adjusting for too long, the play's gone... which is a bad thing.
However, there normally is a bit of play.
Take the correct-thickness feeler gauge and make sure it is spotlessly clean - then try to slide it inbetween rocker & valve. They slide-in best sideways, but find your own best way.
If it goes in - just - and feels not too tight but also not too loose (this is experience which noobies do not have, sorry, however they can learn this by doing all this often) then that valve is set perfect.
If either too loose or when the feeler gauge won't go in, undo the locking-nut with a ringspanner (10mm, spotlessly clean - and only morons use open ended spanners) whilst holding the actual adjuster with a well-fitting screwdriver (which also is spotlessly clean). The idea is to loose the nut whilst the adjuster stays where it is. Once loose wind the nut a half turn up (more loose).
Now turn the adjuster with the screwdriver-only (yes, the nut will also turn) until the feeler gauge just goes in & and can be slid to & fro - just, tot too loose, not too tight.
Now hold the adjuster into position with the screwdriver whilst you turn the nut tight - of course by sliding the screwdriver through the ringspanner. Watchitnow, this only sounds easy, but in practise the adjuster wants to turn with the nut when tightening it - and it may not turn!
Try, fiddle & try again, but get the nut locked whilst the feeler gauge still just slides inbetween the adjuster & rocker. If this is the case then the valve is set correctly... so proceed with the other one(s).
How much torque for those nuts? Never mind the manual, they must be tight whilst not over-tightened (refer remark above regarding experience), but basic gutfeel will get you there. MIND though, it is less than the force you needed to loosen them in the first place! There is oil now inbetween you see, so this lubes the lot now. Apply a bit less for tightening than for taking them loose.

If this all reads daunting then relax, there's a way to check yourself.
Say you 'think' you set the In's to 0.15 - because this size feeler goes in.
Good - does the 0.20 also go in?
It should not, so if it does re-adjust that valve, but a notch tighter this time.
Got a 0.18 feeler in the set? This one should not go in either, however with enough force one can do anything... or cut your fingers


Once you get handier with this, here's an idea. Next time, before you loosen the nuts, you first measure what the actual play is! You may want to write this down for later, may come in handy. Valves 'move' you see, they normally become tighter over time (due to wear), and at a certain point in life this goes quick to fast even... and this point you want to notice, before it get really expensive. This is the time where you take the top off, however, with your new bike this is a loooong way to go still.

Have fun doing this. If you really will be doing this for the first time I'd advise to, after having adjusted all, rotate the wheel again a bit, and then check your own settings. If done correct it all will be fine, but this will give you piece of mind. Also check all nuts before you close her up - and if you turn one then you must re-adjust that valve again.


Old post but great for people like me , if you're still around can you go on to the next part of taking the top off and replacing the usual parts (for dummies) because I'm pretty sure my right intake valve has seen better days. It is almost all the way backed up on the adjustment so much that I'm running out of adjustment which can only be bad right?.
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