Thursday Jan 11: Up and ready to go early. Is it just me? Of course it's just me. So I go to the restaurant for coffee. Anybody here? "Cafe, por favor". I sip and watch the weather girl on TV. Chica caliente! Doin' the show in a black sequined miniskirt. These Mexican women "get it!" Gringo Greg joins me. He's been out photographing the sunrise. Gringa Joanne comes in. She stayed an extra night because nobody told her the bus sometimes comes by an hour or so early. Now my amigos show up. Breakfast is good.
We head out for San Ignacio. The road is great. Climbing, we pass a semi on a hairpin as he's signaling for us to pass. Or is he turnin' left? Ten minutes later he passes me doin 150k. We stop at Laguna Chapala and Jimmy tells a few Baja 1000 anecdotes. Jimmy, at age 69, has been doin' the Baja moto thing for nearly 40 years. Brent has ridden in the 1000 and other races there. Yeah, I'm in good company. Further south in Jesus Marie we stop at the predicted Pemex. Across the lot is a little grub shack, 'Famosa Carmalita'. They have awesome tamales con pollo. Guy ran across the street to get us cold Tecates too.
Gringo Greg @ Famosa Carmelita courtesy of Joanne's fb
Now to Guerrero Negro where Jimmy wants to visit his amigo Fausto. Fausto ain't home but while Jimmy's talkin' to Senora Fausto I notice half the town is lined up to get fish tacos from a vendor across the street. At the time fish taco didn't seem like somethin' I would like but hey, half a town can't be wrong. They weren't. I'm hooked.
Stowaway in Guerrero Negro. I like cats.
From here the road is straight and desolate for 100km then gets better the closer you get to San Ignacio. We pull into Rice & Beans after mid afternoon. Cold Tecates, $$ here. Jimmy knows the guy, Ricardo I think. They rent us rooms ($40US) and we settle in. Gringa Joanne is already there. Gringo Greg dropped her off and said adios. Evidently Greg wigged out over payin' for some bug spray under his car in Guerrero Negro. Situation escalated and and the two got slammed for havin' no FMM. $$$ Greg said he would drive straight through to La Paz. Bad idea the gurus tell me.
Then a couple of high dollar Baja Trophy type racers roll in. It's some cat named Walker Evans and his posse. I'm learnin'. This guy's a nine time Baja 1000 champion. After dinner we buy him a beer and he joins us and starts spinnin' Baja yarns for hours. Beer money well spent. Jimmy had actually doused the guy with a fire extinguisher during a pit stop some 30 or so years ago. "That was you?". "Well yeah, your f%#*&n car was on fire". Laughs! This cat was quite a competitor.
Friday Jan 12: We roll out after breakfast at R&B (good). Gas up and head for Loreto. We soon pass a disco in the middle of nowhere. It's surrounded by semi trucks at 10AM. Hmm...Wonder what's the attraction there. Before we get to Santa Rosalia we go down dead mans hill. Steep as hell, hairpin turns, no guard rail. Oh, there was but they're sheered off at the ground. Wonder what caused that. To high up to see if there was a pile of trucks at the bottom. Santa Rosalia is an old mining town. Different look about the place. French architecture. We checked out some of the old mine structures and relic equipment. Cool place.
Jimmy w/friend in Santa Rosalia
South now past Mulege. We stopped for lunch at a nice joint where we ate cheeseburgers with fries and Tecate. It's right by the beach on the Bahia Concepcion where all the RVs camp. Next, on to Loreto where we stay at the Plaza (de Loreto). ($35US) Nice room. They let a group of single track riders park in the court yard. We parked out on the street right outside the front door, locked up with our big cables. One in the other group, rndozer, posted his trip here on ADV, http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...=763227&page=2
. While reading it I saw a photo of myself standing out front. He was capturing the hotel itself.
rnrdozer & Co bikes in courtyard
We hit a happy hour down on the seafront. Joanne from Catavina joined us there. Clams, tacos, Tecate. Rider meeting. Back on Thanksgiving Tom said we would ride to Cabo. By Tucson the plan was La Paz. Tonight we decided screw it, we'll stay here an extra day and be in no hurry on the trip north.
Nuestra Senora de Loreto
Saturday Jan 13: Loreto is laid back. Artsy. Lots of coffee shops. Good, 'cause I need somethin' to do while waitin' for the others get goin'. Oh, first I have to wait for the joint to open. Mex time! I'll have the cuppachino mocha au lait. Breackfast down a block east across the street (good). We decide to ride to the mission at San Javier today. We head west on a nicely paved road up through tight twisties for about 25km before it turns to dirt. Easily managed even by rook on street tires. It is finally a hot day. First of the trip. I take the liner out of my Firstgear mesh. Leaving the mission I'm bringin' up the rear when I see Tom standin' next to his wee strom layin' in the road. Seems his satillite doohicky thing that was mounted on his dash fell down into the fork well and was hangin by the wiring and locked up his steering. He got it shut down to the point it was more like a laugh in tip over. His clutch lever now 'sans serif'. When we got to the pavement we lit em up. Charging down the canyon was awesome. I would need to lower the rear brake lever as I discovered I couldn't use it in lefties.
When we got back to the main drag we headed south down the coast where we ate at a clam shack called Vista del Mar. Boy did we sock the clams away. Tecates too. We left there and went on south and west over the twisty road 'til it straightened out, took a piss break then let 'er eat through the twisty stuff goin back. We checked out a marina at Puerto Escondido. Nice sailing vessels. I should mention I love sailing too.
Almejas con tocino y queso
Back at the hotel Brento comes to my room and says my wife left a text on his phone. I need to call home right away. Oh shit! I haven't called since uh, I don't know. She's pissed because our boiler shut down and she had no heat or hot water. OK maybe more than pissed. NOTE: If you have a Verison phone it's useless in 99% of Baja. Brent had a ATT. I told her I'd fix it when I got home or she could call a service guy. She opted for the service guy. Another NOTE: I serviced the boiler last month and found a really nice torx combi set inside. Thanks service guy.
I got an awesome massage that evening at a nice spa around the corner at the Hotel Posada las Flores. First class work. We met up with Joanne and went to dinner west up the street at Tio Lupes. Mountains of food and Pacifico was on special. Drank mass quantities. Coversation degenerated to politics, Palastinian/Israeli conflict. Not good. We broke it off for the night.
What's left of food mountain at Tio Lupe's