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Old 02-15-2013, 09:22 PM   #28
planemanx15 OP
Beastly Adventurer
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Long Island, NY
Oddometer: 1,009
Wink Part 1

I guess I'll start to do this write up now, please forgive me if I forget something, as there is a lot of information I would like to jot down and it's getting late.

I started the project around 10am, and finished around 4:30pm, working straight through, no breaks. Before I begin, the first thing I would say is if you’re planning on doing this, it would be wise to get another person to help you out. I found myself in a few binds where another person’s hands or brains would be useful. After taking off the usual parts, I followed the service manual for engine removal and took off the parts it stated.

As you can see laid out, I have the tank, air box, header, oil cooler, TONS of nuts and bolts, etc. I laid the carb on the frame. The engine stayed in the bike, a decision that I regretted. I should have taking It out for 2 reasons. 1) To clean it; and 2) For an easier install without the frame in my way. I had a hard time with a few bolts, namely the header bolts. I couldn’t get one of them off, and to make it worse it was the inside one. The inside hex head stripped to a circle. It was at this point I was getting scared that I couldn’t do this and it was a waste. After thinking and trying various tools, I ended up heating it with a torch, then WD-40, over and over. Then I used a vise grip and broke it free, turning it 1\8 of a turn each time. On the reinstallation I cut the bolt to use a large flat screwdriver and used that to install it.

Before digging into the engine:

I followed the manual to the letter as to what to order to take the cylinder head cover bolts off. I used a piece of cardboard to lay out the bolts and keep them organized for the installation:

Nothing was too tight, that scared me, but when doing the reinstallation, again, I followed the manual’s tq specs. The tightest bolts in the whole setup were the head bolts. These are the long ones that go from the very top of the engine to the bottom. 2 of them are seen if you look next to your spark plugs. I’ve been having a small oil leak, either from my spark plug washer, or my header bolt. Either way everything was cleaned up to make sure it wouldn’t come back. Once all the bolts were off, I was able to get to the old piston:

Cylinder head (normal to have this much oil??):


I was able to pull the cam off, and SLOWLY remove the timing chain, making sure I did not drop it into the bottom end. The cam came out with ease, and I removed the gear from it. Procycle supplies the new lock for the bolts for the cam, this is installed later. The manual also does a really good job of explaining how to re-time the engine once you open everything up.

With the cam chain tensioner rods:

Once I was got the head off, all that was left was the 2 nuts that hold the jug onto the rest of the motor. I removed those, and was able to get to this:

The old piston came off rather easy, and I was left with:

Note: The rag in the bottom end saved me from having to dig a metal dowel and a circip from the gears… Be sure to cover it.

Now for the size comparison:

More to come…
2000 Suzuki DR650-790 - 790cc Big bore build thread
1985 Yamaha CA50 - The little scooter that Could
2009 Piaggio BV-250 - Escusi, Babba be bo-bee

planemanx15 screwed with this post 02-27-2013 at 06:32 PM
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