Originally Posted by Adv Grifter
My routine for managing my elec. output/battery life is this:
When super cold I'll be running everything up at 100%, the Gerbing draws 77 watts at 100%. Heated grips on HIGH (about 30 watts). That about expends ALL of the DR's extra Watts. My 35W HID light saves 20 Watts.
Daylight riding in super cold on a longer ride I switch off my headlight. (this is optional, as on certain roads running your headlight can be a safety issue) At night, no choice, head light must be ON. But if you can turn off headlight in daylight ... that's another 35W to 55W free saving. (depending which bulb type you're using)
Any time I come into a town or area with speed reduction I switch OFF all accessories. I try to minimize brake light & turn signal use. At low RPM engine is charging LESS ... so going slow? Accessories OFF.
Remember: Your battery may discharge some if you are over taxing it and discharging .... BUT ... once accessories are switched OFF ... you battery will recover! (providing it's reasonably healthy)
I've gone from a dead batt that would not turn over the motor to one that cranks ... in just 20 minutes of riding with accessories OFF.
So, even if your Batt gets low or goes dead ... it will come back in most cases. Just manage your accessories.
I finally got the correct headlight bulb from DDM Tuning, and just to make things easier on myself in the future, I had them send me a spare bulb for $12 extra. What I think is extremely nice about the 35watt setup, is I can turn the headlight off by simply engaging the "bright" switch on the left handlebar. Yes, technically I no longer have a "bright" option, but the low-beam HID setting from the DDM kit is far brighter and cleaner than the original "bright" setting anyway.
I had been wanting to install some type of switch that would allow me to turn the headlight off, and the DDM kit kills two birds with one stone. Simple installation (when you order the correct bulb)...