Originally Posted by aksinha88
The only reason why I'd like to upgrade is so I can run my heated gear as well as charge my photography equipment while im riding about. I'll do the math tonight and see if i can save that $130.
Good call on the RTV stuff
, forgot about that. haha. Honestly I'd want to keep the stock stator if it does the job. Why fix it if its not broken
RTV is what I was going to mention, except that the way I do it (Hi Fritz) is to clean the wire grommet very well with alchohol, acetone, or MEK and a small brush such that there is no oil film left on it, then upon assembly coat the inner groove in hi-temp RTV, covering around completely where it meets the case cover and the gasket surface (you want enough, but not big gobs, smooth it - working carefully and being thorough pays off here), then assemble carefully so it only goes together and not back apart. That has always worked well for me on many occasions over the years - no leaks. I wouldn't consider cutting the wires.
As for the stator upgrade, I doubt that's necessary for what you describe. Charging photography equipment should take less than a tail light. It all depends on how much heated gear you want to run at full power and for how long. You'd have to be on the extreme end of power usage to need the extra, and it's a lot of effort for the gain. Good call on calculating your needs, that should be a critical element of information used in the decision to upgrade or not.
As for the regulator, should you upgrade the stator, perhaps a beefier one, but initially you can check to see if the stock one is heating up while road riding with a charged battery and no accessories (worst case). Since the shunt regulator dissipates more as the power being produced by the stator is not being used by the bike (or anything attached), it won't be working hard (not heating up much) when you're running heated gear and such.