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Old 03-03-2013, 02:00 AM   #7
eric n
Gnarly Adventurer
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: pdx
Oddometer: 160

it sounds like your new to klr's.....

they are very specific bike. under powered. yet very rugged if you do the mods.

not that you asked for it. but here's a basic summary of what you need to do.

lubricate the rear swing arm bearings. all of them. use waterproof bearing lube the red stuff is best.

change the rear spring they have the least expensive ones.

front forks: inner down tube enlarge the dampening holes one drill bit size larger than what they are now. I then use mobile one synthetic transmition oil. not too stiff when its cold out and not to loose when its hot.

.22 cent mod on the carb. file the washer down to about .017" don't just shove a #22 washer in there you need to measure it and thin it.

de snorkel it but don't put any holes in the intake box.

eagle mike dohicy...

ktm front fender...

put real hand guards on it so you can adjust the controls for a standing position. the clutch lever will be lower than the brake lever making you look lopsided. and the stock guards will break your cluster in a crash.

chain: 15 44 sprockets. still works with 108 link chain. stock is 15 43 I've done all the other combos 44 rear is modest enough to keep top speed and improved low speed control.

for our weather conditions higher windshield and heated grips are advised. I put the heated grips straight to the battery with a fog lamp relay wired to the license plate light so it turns on and off with the ignition, and added a 12v socket to that circuit as well.

wattman thermo bob. google it. for cold weather it keeps the engine at proper temps.

shell rotella t 15 40 does work well in klr engines

dumond chain oil is what I've landed on. the others don't do well in major rain and mud riding.

most of these items are cheap or just labor intensive. there's more than just these items. but this is most basic things that should be done in my experience.
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