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Old 03-13-2013, 08:38 AM   #22
battlecattle
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Tail of the Dragon
Oddometer: 251
Quote:
Originally Posted by bastimentos View Post
That's a unique setup you're building there battlecattle. I can see from that shot you are prone to making modications to suit your needs of the bike, what is it about that lighting rig that made you build it?
Many things really. The first huge hurdle is the 400watt stator. Under normal use it is plenty but if you add heated gloves, jacket and stop and go traffic it hates you. The headlight alone draws 4.8amps per headlight! and you have 2 of them! In contrast my heated jacket alone draws 7.4amps total with jacket and low beam headlight is 12.2amps now that seems reasonable but 12.2amps * 12V = 146.4 watts we only have 400watts! That is almost half of the available power, add the highbeam and you are over 200watts (204watts).

Now I haven't found a single source that has determined what the bike requires to stay running so I am saying roughly 150watts. If that is the case I have a remaining 4.2amps left. Granted that is a high draw and assuming idle but that is worst case. If I am in stop and go traffic with bitter winds would you want to turn your heated gear down? Not I!

back to the headlight...

My new headlight design will draw .85amps on lowbeam. and 2.4amps for each highbeam. So with all 3 lights on 5.65amps with the ability to turn off each individually. That means I can bring my current draw down by 5.65amps with the flick of a switch (assuming daylight). Also the 3 headlight design gives me piece of mind in case of a failure, hopefully at least 1 will continue to work until civilization.

[history]
A little history, (or skip nothing important) I have been working on this for a few months and originally started off with a .5amp LED headlight replacement which for lack of a better word, shitty. But it also showed me another problem with the bike itself. The headlight blub out light, that little miracle would shut down the circuit if the current was too low. Now after trying to find a device that would produce a variable steady draw I was able to determine (roughly and crudely) that the CANBUS is looking for a current draw of atleast .8amps. On my meter I saw .7 but it wasn't steady so I don't believe it. Now if you remember from the previous part of the post my low beam draws .85amps, how convenient no error light!
[/history]

Now the biggest part of this whole project is to minimize the effect on the "stock bike". I don't want to cut the harness (unfortunately unless a miracle happens I will have to), I don't follow the normal farkles people put on, nor do I want to bring the bike to a point I cannot put the stock stuff back on.

I will answer any questions I can about what I am doing and why. I over think everything and have very high standards about how I do things. As an example wiring everything on the bike, every splice (very very few, eliminating them this year) is done in this manner.
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battlecattle screwed with this post 03-13-2013 at 08:46 AM
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