Nop. The spring is not coming this year.
At least not here. Its the second half of the March - and the temperatures are lower then they were in January. Everything is frozen and full of snow and ice and the things that the weatherman is saying - are just not the kinda stuff we want to hear...
I still got the bug in me - no way a sunny day can keep me away from thinking about riding a little. Had some stuff that still needed sorting out.
After the exhaust had been modified to 2-into-1 system, there would probably be some mismatch with the intake. Well - the fellow Carrot teamer lend me a hand and came to check out the carb sync. It is an easy procedure and should take one no more than 30 minutes (counting the removal of tank and some bits). I wanted to buy the proper carb balance tool - our motoshops only sell some dial versions and I wanted to have the mercury type. (used that before, that I got from a friend and was super). But money is tight and 130 EUR for that tool - not in the budget right now. So a Carb/throttle body sync tool was born.
and here is the little one
Not so little?
HEH - if 5m of 4mm diam duct was bought then for all that worth the balancer tool got. The oil is just clean 2-stroke oil. A little thick when cold in the garage but safe for the engine and all the parts. (Red ATF is also very good). In both ends of the duct there are pnp adapters for the balancing lines of the carbs on the motorcycle. (they were already prepared on the right side of the engine during the cleanup procedures.)
- What we needed to do?
= Remove the glove box in the middle - remove the right tank with upper fairing, connect lines and check for balance - if out of sync, then remove the air box cover and air filter and the regulating screw is a + type on the left side of the rear carb.
Whilst taking off the right tank - think of fuel spillage !!!
OK - so we did close that valve on the right tank but forgot that the fuel from the left one still flows. Hence - spillage, again
The fuel valve was closed and bike rolled out the garage to be started and warmed up.
NO SUCH LUCK.
The bike would crank but not start. I could hear the battery already getting weak - no charging done for quite some time.
A few more tries and nothing. So we took turns in pushing and trying to jumpstart it - nothing again. Dead as a duck after a good coocking.
So off comes the battery cover and out comes the battery and goes to charging for the night.
A sidenote - the stupid holder for the SW-motech bash plate is in the way - so 2 more bolts need to be removed, to get the battery out.
Bad batteries You say? well - this one is from 2004 and seems to be still working.
A quote from the old computer game comes to mind here:
"Thust You wish to leave with such a hasty abandon?"
Nop - but there is nothing to be done, but to wait for the battery charger to do its work.
0800 am I´m up and running. Stuff gets sorted at home - I run my runs and get the battery from charger. Seems full - measure 12,6V from it.
I take my tools and run to the garage.
And there is spillage. Again.
The good damn right tank was supported against the wall but aparently the fuel valve did not close properly so almost most of the "good stuff" was now on the garage floor. And the SMELL. Mmmmmmm. Better not light a match in here.
When I sat down to the computer last night the epiphany moment was not far from me. Just looked at the fuel line set up from the manual for a second and remembered - WE TURNED THE FRIEKEN LEFT TANK FUEL OFF TOO
So in order to get things running again I plugged the right end of the fuel line with a tool, opened the valve on the remaining left tank and - -
wait for it
Plugged the thing properly and the bike started right up. After some running and heating up - I rose the revs to about 2000 rpm and this is what it looked like.
I hope You can see the difference - it was about 3-4 inches and slowly climbing. The rear carb was pulling more vac.
This type of carb sync tool is sensitive. But since the oil was thick from cold - the reaction is slow. Sync took about 3-5 minutes of testing and revving and letting it settle and more testing. I finally left it to about half an inch of difference - more accurate was just not possible. (compared to the small sync tools I bet it was about 1mm of difference between two carbs).
Bike ran fine - the popping disapeared and even in rev limiter, there would be no more flames coming out the back.
About 20 minutes of cooling and then putting everything back together.
oiled up some connections and even installed the bash plate and cleaned the beast a little.
So here is the monster - ready to race, or test or whatever.
You get teh idea.
The traveling stuff needs to wait for its time - until then I intend to get to know my bike a little better on the roads and off of them