southern honduras dirt roads
In la esperanza. from here, the next morning I figured I would ride north through Honduras on all pavement to get to la ceiba. it was Saturday and I had heard la ceiba was a fun party town so figured if I could bust all the way north in one day I could maybe have a fun night out on the town.
damn but a couple ice cold cuba libres in a can is a pretty good way to unwind after a day of riding. wish I could get these back home.
next day just ripped across Honduras to la ceiba.
La ceiba it turns out is a proper shithole (no offence meant to anyone who lives there). I stayed in the official "party zone" which is marked with signs. I guess that awhile ago la ceiba was becoming a great party town before tourism collapsed in Honduras. now the "party zone" is basically these really dirty looking strip clubs and brothels mixed with a few proper discos spread out over 4-5 blocks, and all interspersed with abandoned buildings and empty lots full of garbage. when I was there the sewers were backed up so there were big puddles of sewage water in the street which stunk. the whole place had a ridiculously seedy vibe.
the downtown is nicer than the party zone. heres a pic of downtown.
Went out for drinks around 10 pm. I was a little spooked leaving the hotel. figured i would hop through a couple bars then find a disco to hang out at late night. headed to an all black garifuna bar a couple blocks from my hotel which was the only place that had a bunch of people in it and some rocking music. sat down for a beer and almost immediately some guy tried to shake me down for cash. He just walked straight up, got right in my face, and said (in English) "give me 10 lempira, boy." I said no, he said it again and moved to where he was like 6 inches away from me. I stood up and said no again. Then he tried to grab the tip I just left for the bartender. I was faster and pushed the cash off the bar and into the bar well. he gave up after that. Then like 5 minutes later some other guy came up and tried AGAIN!
At that point I was more spooked so I left that bar and walked nervously a couple blocks down to the biggest, nicest, most expensive disco in town where at least there was an army of bouncers outside with big guns. Decided to stay there for the night, order some drinks at the bar, and just wait for other people to show up since it was pretty empty. Eventually the place packed out and made for some fantastic people watching.
Met this great couple and we had a nice chat over beers and shots and more beers about Honduras politics and narco trafficking. they were both professionals working in the medical field. In short: they have a much higher opinion of narco traffickers than they do of Honduran politicians, which I thought was interesting. In their view, at least the narcos bring jobs, money, infrastructure, and some level of security to the community, whereas politicians are lazy and dishonest and live big by taxing normal people who actually work.
stayed with them drinking and dancing until about 5am. one weird thing i remember about this bar: the bouncers were packing guns on the dancefloor. just handguns tucked into pants, no holsters. I was thinking shit, if something goes wrong it's going to be a f-ing bloodbath in here! anyway nothing did go wrong and the nice couple above gave me a ride back to the hotel in the wee hours of the morning. definitely did not want to be walking the la ceiba streets at that hour.
Next day back on the bike and continued to Trujillo where I found a great hotel called "kiwi" on the beach which was unfortunately shutting down that very week. Spent two great nights there, made some new friends.
from there I headed out like Gerardo had said toward batalla. pavement led to dirt roads, and eventually the dirt roads emptied out onto the beach.
they squeezed me on the side of this ferry with another truck. pretty dicey. almost went for a swim with the bike.
beach had two tire tracks that were reasonably well packed out but still soft. had swapped out my worn rear knobby for a pirelli scorpion when I left Baja. was regretting not having a knobby but still had a blast ripping along the beach.