I received the gearbox back from my mech with new bearings & circlip, shimmed & reassembled. He was a bit unsure of fitting the rear seal as the inside diameter looked smaller then the speedo drive gear. I took it off his hands & decided to have a go at making some tools & installing it myself.
Out of some scrap bar I cut up a ... um ... torquing bar. Cut some MDF for a seal putter inner & had a piece of exhaust tube 38mm to form the seal before sliding it over the speedo drive gear. I got some expert advice to not use seal grease (as was advised to by my mech mates) on the teflon seal.
A bit of careful manipulation the seal was tapped in. I sealed the vent hole later don't worry
I have tried to hide the salad fork in this photo as it tends to freak out some viewers. far out have you guys torqued one of those output shaft nuts before?? i think it was sposed to be at 150ft/lbs & my grunty torque wrench only went up to 150. I soon moved it onto the floor for more leverage.
When that was filled up & ready I removed the swingarm etc & temp gearbox. I took the driveshaft out for inspection & had a feel of it for interests sake. I was a bit annoyed to feel a bit of notchiness on the rear end UJ that I had replaced a couple of years (& less than 10K km) ago. i took it down to my local bike shop I got it done thru. They had outsourced it to a co somewhere else.
The mech spent 5 mins with a furrowed brow moving it back & fro thinking about it. I knew that i couldn't really send it back as it was a few years if not many Ks on it but wanted a 2nd opinion. He pointed out that there was no play in it as such but that notchy resistance could be a needle that has somehow moved out of place. We concluded that it would be better just to put it in & save for a rebuildable DS. It may last a while or it may get vibey soon. At least I know it's not the best.
if you've seen my posts in the rebuildable driveshaft thread I will prob get one of these. I have been quoted about $500 AU + postage which is actually quite reasonable. It pisses me off that that UJ replacement cost $350NZ when I could've put that towards a rebuildable one. However if I remember they were pretty untested & more expensive back then.
Anyhoo today I got the chance to put the fresh gearbox in. I checked the clutch (rooted a couple of those bloody clutch bolts again) & it looked good. Spent a bit of time looking at the clutch actuation rod & the spring plate. Over time it looks like the rod begins to push thru the hole in the plate. Looked at the 65 one & it looks the same.
A few hours of greasy knuckles later the bike was back together & I started it up. The gears seemed to move thru easilyer than the older box on the quick drive down to the letterbox & back. I'll give it a better run tomorrow hopefully.