Originally Posted by 8gv
Can you reach down into the engine with a grabber to get the feeler gauge?
I took my flywheel off last year and it was pretty easy to do. After removing the bolt that holds it on. I found an appropriately sized metric bolt (actually the rear axle bolt of my friend's KLX250) and screwed it into the center of the flywheel. With the bike in 6th gear I turned the bolt until the flywheel popped off.
I understand the changes you are making. It may be too late for this but I would caution you to not change too many things at once. After setting the valves it would be good to know what if anything has changed in the way it runs.
If the tight valves have allowed the head to be damaged, you may want to hold off on farkling the bike.
I tried telescoping magnets and grabbers and unfortunately the only way I can figure to get it is to pull the flywheel off. I tore the generator cover gasket and I need a new plastic bolt piece for the carb (where the choke cable attaches to the carb), so pulling the flywheel isn't a big deal or a time sink since I'll be waiting for parts anyhow.
It is too late, and I had considered that myself (but too late also)... I really should have done one thing at a time. But I guess I'll just have to hope for the best now.
So far I've spent about $200ish on various replacement parts. Hopefully no serious damage has been done to the head with the tight valves. If it has, I'm not too deep into the bike though.
Originally Posted by rube
The silver part in your photo appears to be 16017 (called the jet needle on the parts diagram I am looking at) and the brass part to the left is 13091 (holder, needle jet) and 92063 (jet main).
On most carbs that I have cleaned the 16017 part has not come out of the carb easily/if at all. On my KLR250 it did come out and looked just like in your photo. As I recall it is directional with a bevel on one end that seems to let the needle slide in more easily when the carb slide returns to the down positioni. You can see the tip of 16017 in the throat of the carb when it is seated all the way.
I would recommend not going with stock jetting but understand your frustration with spending the time trying to get the jetting right. From what I read (and found on my one klr250) the stock jetting is pretty lean. With an aftermarket pipe I would think the lean condition would be exagerated on your bike. It should get great milage with the stock jetting though - so there is a benefit!
I have a 125 main and 38 pilot factory Kiehin jets in my stock carb. The bike runs well with a slightly modified stock exhaust and no airbox snorkle.
Be sure to clean out all the jets you cannot replace. On my carb it took many tries at spraying and soaking and finally I had to use a small MIG welder tip cleaning wire to clean out the non-removable main air jet and starter jet to get the bike to start easily and idle well.
Thanks Rube. Good to hear that piece is the one I had hoped it was. I hadn't actually noticed the bevel before. Thanks!
I also have the stock exhaust that I may throw on if it's running lean... Or maybe I'll have a change of heart and play with the jetting once I get it running. I have the 118 (that I just put back in), 125, and 130 mains and another pilot, I think 40.
I was pretty thorough with cleaning the carb up. I'm pretty hopeful I won't have any follow-up work to do with that (well, other than maybe adjusting the mixture screw).
Do you think two turns back on the mixture screw is a good start point?