Thread: TT350 Not XT350
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:52 AM   #155
Lenz1
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Queensland Australia
Oddometer: 141
I had to buy a new std volume Clarke fuel tank out of the US due to major cracking appearing in the original tank once fuel was in it. I'm happy with that decision because I can supplement the std fuel volume with a roll - up - when empty fuel bladder from liquidcontainment.com.au on the Gold Coast Queensland and not have a big tank when it's not required.

Betta Bikes in Sth Aust have the 12V DC conversions sorted and another good source of motorcycle electricals is Gosford Motorcycle Wreckers in New South Wales.

I had a close look at the stator coils today. The return coil wire is bolted through the coil laminations (normal) and supposedly makes electrical gnd contact with the backing plate via either the securing bolt or direct contact between wire then coil laminations then stator backing plate. What I found when I unscrewed the bigarsed lighting coil was electrical insulation material around the securing bolts, in the threads and between the coil and the backing plate. So how this lighting circuit was achieving full continuity is something of a mystery to me. Could explain a few things maybe ...

I'm not inclined to bin the existing lighting coil just yet, maybe the most cost effective solution is to buy one additional lighting coil, join it in parallel with the existing coil and run the increased AC output through a bridge rectifier/DC regulator and battery.

Just a heads up on the puller required to remove the rotor. Working from the central boss is the only way to avoid damage to the rotor as the outer holes are too weak for any kind of puller attachment. The thread on the central rotor boss is a LEFT HAND 27mm diameter 1.0mm pitch little darling. A steel wad of 17mm dia or slightly less is needed for the central puller bolt to push on the outer end of the crankshaft. The puller I borrowed off a mate sheared the original central puller bolt (12mm dia x 1.75mm pitch and apparently made of the dreaded "shit metal") - replaced with a high tensile bolt and tore thread off the main body of the puller when I had less than the full threaded rotor boss fully engaged - yes FUCKING TIGHT - not looking for a repeat performance .... be advised

Lenz1 screwed with this post 03-24-2013 at 05:11 AM
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