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Old 03-25-2013, 09:14 PM   #17
CJ's bitch
bigdog99's Avatar
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Near cowtown, CA
Oddometer: 280
If you've been crashing, the bike must have its share of scrapes. Just drag the bike around by the front or rear wheel until the wheels are below the handlebars as much as possible. Put the front or rear wheel aganst a tree stump, dirt mound or rock if it you think it will slide away from you.

You don't HAVE to pick it ALL the way up in most cases. Find a heavy branch or chunk of wood or a big flat rock and set it alongside your foot when you do the first lift. Grab the handlebar cross bar (either facing the bike or with your backside to it) or the seat strap or muffler, and lift slightly using your legs, then when you get stabilized with the bike maybe 1/3 of the way up, kick said log/branch/rock underneath the bike, preferably underneath the footpeg/engine/etc as far under as you can get it. This will allow you to stabilize the bike partially raised, which allows you to squat down and get a new grip to use your legs to right the bike. Sometimes you can use your tow-strap (you do carry a tow-strap?) or a belt tp wrap around a footpeg or muffler mount that let's you get a good rotational lift using your back against the bike.

Having electric start is an advantage, since it isn't as critical where the bike is once you get it righted. Once it's back on its wheels, stand beside it and start the engine and bulldog it back to the road/trail.

For us gray-hairs, the worst part of the recovery sometimes was finding a way to get yourself back in the saddle and then trying to kick-start a flooded engine while your downhill leg was 5 feet in the air! After the original bark-busters were invented, you soon learned to hang on to the handlebars and de-clutch while crashing. If you coud hop up real quick, you could sometimes pick up the bike before it stalled!
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