Originally Posted by apfranzen
Hey guys, long time no update, by I'm back at it!
Tore into it and sure enough the exhaust cam shaft is scored and the head journals for the exhaust cam shaft are fairly chewed up. Oil was dark, but no shards of metal at all.
My best guess of what happened is because the exhaust camshaft is the last part of the engine to get oil, it went dry first, started getting chewed up, camshaft seized up, killed the engine. The key from the cam chain gear to the exhaust cam shaft was broken, so the gear is spinning freely. What do you guys think?
My thoughts on what needs to be replaced as of now:
-new exhaust cam shaft journals
-new cam chain because it was strained?
@Beezer & @RandoCommando - Wish I would have hopped on those links sooner, I just hadn't torn into the engine to confirm what I needed yet. What do you guys think of this, $650 for head assembly with valves: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-KLR...item589cd1e15f
What do I need to look into next? Make sure the valves weren't bent?
Shot of engine block from the right side:
Shot of exhaust cam shaft damage:
Shot of the top journals:
What is the tube connecting the intake and exhaust cam shaft journals?
I purchased an 08 KLR for my dad knowing it had been run out of oil ie cams were shot. I intended to do a 685 on his bike for our trip no matter what so i figured it was worth the gmable. My plan was to just replace the head and cams. I have seen them on ebay (with cams) for $500 or sometimes a little less. Personally think $650 without cams is to much, but they are fairly rare so if time is of the essence you may have no choice.
I ended up finding a complete 08 engine with <1000 miles on ebay that I paid ~$900 for. At $1800 I doubt those engines sell. The guy had this one listed for $1100 with best offer so I offered $750ish (then there was $150 shipping) and he accepted. I figure I can sell off parts of the other one to decrease the cost even further, IMO it was a better deal than just buying a head and cams. You can check prices items sold (or if they didn't sell on ebay). I went thru and saw he had listed the motor for $<1000 previously and it didn't sell. Don't be afraid to make a 'resonable' offer.
It is a bit of a crap shoot as to the bottom end, I have heard stories both ways. I'd definetly do your best to flush it with kerosene or diesel to flush all the shavings out of the motor. Pull the oil screen as said before. Some people get away with this (this was my plan before finding the whole motor) but sometimes you just can't get the aluminum shavings out of the bearings and most people consider the bottom end a lost cause if the crank bearing goes (one of the parts I believe the race isn't available so you have to replace the whole crank).
As to your questions, only buy a head that includes the journal caps, they are machined as a unit. My guess is the cam chain will be fine, but I believe there are specs for it in the manual if you have one. Also pull the left side cover to veryify everything in there is good. I personally wouldn't reuse the valves, but you can determine if they are good enough. I'd pretty much consider the head a total loss and go from there. The intake cam journals look 'ok' based on the pic in my phone so I'd imagine the intake cam is decent and may be reusable, but make sure the cam is smooth to the touch. If it isn't ditch it also. Good luck.