The ride from Puerto Vallarta south was more than we could have ever imagined. Amazingly beautiful views, incredible switchbacks through really high, rich, green vegetation! It was even better than the ride in California. The difference here was that there were no signs to warn you about the turns, especially no recommended speed, so we had to be way more alert and rely on our good judgement to make the right decisions before the turns. But anyway, there must be very few other roads out there that can bit this one! From far the best riding we've done so far! Too bad we could not take pictures, since the roads here don't have shoulders, so you have to stop in the middle of the road if you want to take pictures, which would have been very unsafe in this situation.
We stopped to have lunch at a very nice restaurant in the middle of the jungle.
The food was delicious, as usual. We had chorizo and grilled chicken. I loved the plates the food came in.
We stopped for the night in San Juan de Alima, a gorgeous little village on the beach. Of course Vasile had to play in the sand a bit, as soon as we got there
We found a very inexpensive motel right on the beach, with really friendly people. We jumped in the ocean right away to cool down, and we were surprised how warm the water was, considering it was the Pacific. This is the view from our room:
The owner had a funny parrot, that he was talking to. The bird was so funny responding and flirting back with the owner, when he was saying "give me a besito" (give me a kiss).
We left in the morning and we stopped by Ixtapilla beach, where we were told there would be giant turtles hatching on the beach. We could see the traces in the sand, as well as lots of egg pieces (sign that most of them have hatched*already), but no turtles. Apparently they only come out at night. So we kept going, planning to stop on another beach that would have the giant turtles.
We left the next day and rode through a tunel*of vegetation again.
As we were riding, we noticed along the way that there were lots of motorcycles in every village we passed. As we needed to gas up, we were looking for a gas station. Vasile stopped and bought a gallon of regular from a local, just as a temporary solution. We kept riding, until we saw this guy, in the middle of the road, next to a gas station, diverting all the motorcycles into the gas station. So we followed. We pulled the bikes closed to the pump waiting for the guy in front of us to move the bike so we can fill up. As nobody was moving the bikes, we realised there was actually no gas there, it was just an abandoned gas station, and we were in the middle of a "Mexican Hell's Angels" meeting
. So we decided that was no place for us, and we left.
Next stop for the night was at Pina Beach. We camped on the beach, between palm trees.
And here is dinner....before
Then on the road again. We went through Acapulco. Incredibly beautiful location, on the cliffs, right by the sea. I can totally understand where its fame comes from.
The touristic area is very beautiful, but the residential area for locals was the worst I've seen in Mexico so far. Also, the traffic was more than crazy. We had done a long day, since 9:30 am untill 6:30 PM, with only one 20 min break to drink some water, use the washroom, gas up and have an ice cream. We were tired, exhausted from the heat, dehydrated, and the traffic topped it off. I could hardly wait to get out of the city and stop somewhere. I wanted to get to Barra Vieja, since everybody told me that there was a beach there where the giant sea turtles come and hatch, and I wanted to see them.
We got to Barra Vieja, and I could not believe the prices! All hotels/ motels were asking Whistler prices - over $100 a night. We finally found a place at 600 pesos a night (around $50) and it was the worst place I've stayed in so far, except that it had a pool, so I could refresh a bit . Barely had a bed to sleep in, and that's it. Oh, and they claimed they had air conditioning, but they forgot to mention that at 11 pm they would cut off the electricity, therefore no air conditioning.
But it was still worth it, since I had an experience that I don't think I would have again any time soon. When we got there, the owner of the motel was just releasing some baby turtles that just hatched in the sea. It was the most amazing feeling to hold those little creatures in my hand!
At 7 pm we realised that everyone had left, so we could not even have a bottle of water anymore, and we were running out of water. We went for a walk on the beach, but we did not see any of the giant turtles unfortunately. We probably didn't know the exact place, and where we were it was too much traffic, so I doubt the turtles would come where there are too many humans around.
Next day we rode back to Acapulco and we stopped at a McDonalds, since we needed internet, so Vasile could look for some tires for his KTM. We spent some time there, so we decided it would be a short day ride. We stopped in Copala, at Piccolino hotel, where we were *lucky enough for 250 pesos to have internet and air conditioning. On top of that, we got to chat for a couple of hours with Cristina, a very friendly and funny receptionist here, who told us how good the oysters are, not just because they are tasty, but they are good Viagra too
And she was very serious about it