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Old 04-04-2013, 11:22 AM   #25
eustachius OP
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Austria
Oddometer: 95
Originally Posted by fluctuat_nec_mergitur View Post
I did a similar trip a month after you, without the detour to Mongolia, and have been preparing a RR but now that you've done yours I don't need to publish mine: you have better pics and a more precise writing.

Are you sure you weren't covered by your incurance? Did you check your Green Card? If my memory serves me right Iran _is_ included. -On the other hand, at that price it doesn't really make a difference. However, the 'stans and Russia East of Urals are not covered. Looking forward to learn how you got insurance for those places.

Had the same experience so probably you are right. The only complication was the peculiar Iranian way of paying in 'tumens' (tumen is 10 rials). Some room for confusion for an inexperienced rider.
This is my first ride report and I am not much of a photographer or writer. But thanks anyway for your kind reaction.

I inquired about insurance for Iran and Turkey, they are both crossed out on my Green Card. My Austrian insurance told me to buy local insurance at the borders. They were not sure if Iran would accept the Austrian policy and Turkish insurance was cheaper at the border than it would have cost at home.

Will try not to forget to write about insurance issues in the other countries and would love to read about your experiences and see your pictures.

So I went along the Caspian Sea. I had expected more. My direction was Gorgan, Bojnurd, Quchan. Temperatures were nice and once I had left the Caspian Sea behind, there was much less traffic and I really enjoyed riding. Traffic in Iran is something you have to get used to. Roads can be busy at times and Iranian drivers like to get very close to a tourist on a motorcycle. I had some frightening moments. And countless speedbreakers before every town or roundabout.
There were some police checks, but never any fines. It was more out of curiosity, I think. The bike, the tires, the luggage, some small talk etc.

I had OSM on my Garmin and I found it extremely helpful all along.

I stayed with this family for 2 days. The women were in the house preparing dinner while we were walking around their farm.

Hungry bricklayers.

There was something wrong. You see a lot of old trucks on the roads.

This was the backyard of a cheap hotel. When I stay in a hotel I always make sure that I have a safe place for the bike. This might sometimes be the reception, a garage, a neighbour's shed. Very often I would leave my luggage on the bike and only take my daybag, tankbag and sleeping-bag. My Garmin comes up with me, of course. I hate dragging up all my stuff those steep staircases.

One of many smiles I got in this country.

Those last pictures were taken in Quchan. I had spent 10 days in Iran and I found travelling there easier than I had expected. The main roads are in excellent condition. There was fuel whenever I needed some. Food in roadside eateries was cheap, but maybe not as tasty as in Turkey. And I also liked Turkish tea better, it's much stronger.
I had heard about Iranian hospitality, but when I experienced it myself, it was incredible. So many invitations to have tea, dinner or to stay overnight at their homes. Sometimes people found it difficult to understand why I wanted to stay in a hotel.
On May 12th, I went up north towards Turkmenistan. I felt nervous and excited and forgot to take some fuel. This was the only time that I ran out of fuel on the entire trip. I made it to the border, but then the engine died. Luckily I had two litres in my extra-can.

eustachius screwed with this post 04-04-2013 at 12:36 PM
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