Well, I didn't take before and after photos. After I get my cast off my foot next Thursday I can take some after photos. It was really pretty simple on the TT dual headlight using the harness Jim makes - this one:
One side goes to the battery positive (+) and the other to the negative (-) or in my case the positive and negative on my auxiliary fuse box. Mine doesn't have the inline fuse because I have it hooked to the aux. fuse box which is under my tank and mounted on the airbox. Then there are three leads -- one that you plug into the original BMW wiring's H4 socket. The other two have Jim's heavy duty H4 sockets and one goes to each.
For the stocker headlight you would use this one:
It is specifically designed to allow the relays to stay outside of the headlight "shell" because of the limited space.
Jim writes, "This Kit is specially for bikes like the BMW R1100GS which has a tight fitting headlight housing cover. Also, this Kit is for bikes with a very small headlight shell. This Kit allows easy insertion of the bulb leads into the headlight shell. The Kit is shipped with bulb leads out of the socket and they are then plugged in after installing in the headlight housing. The relays can be mounted further back, either in the fairing or under the front of the fuel tank. The relays are shrink wrapped to keep out dirt and moisture."
On the TT it was a pretty tight fit, but it fit with a little finessing.
Connections look different for the stocker, must be because the relays (still are two of them for some reason) are on the outside. I get it, it is so you can thread the lead through the hole at the back of the housing first, then connect the heavy duty H4 socket. Duh! I guess I should have read Jim's quote I posted here on what he recommends for the bus headlight. Anyway, nothing says those that aren't electrically inclined can't make their own, but I went for the more hassle-free route.
I'll look and see whether I have a photo with the light open. If not I'll open it up one of these days and grab a photo.