Thread: KLR250 thread
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Old 04-06-2013, 05:55 PM   #1033
bigfishs
Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: albany, NY
Oddometer: 46
everyone loves a happy ending! My bike will need some shoes soon so this is useful info. Did not know that bit about not tightening up the axle till the brakes are centered.

In other news...

Took my 94 KLR250 to get it NYS inspected today. Failed for not having the kickstand kill switch, and no license plate light.

When I got the bike in dec it would die when I pulled the clutch in sometimes so I snipped the wire from the lever, and put in a loop and spade clips.

So today after the inspection, I hooked up the clutch switch, cleaned it and the dying persisted, obviously. Checked it with a multimeter and it is working ok.

Moving to the kickstand switch, it was not moving freely and was bent (the plunger of the switch) and would rotate out of the way of the stand metal contact sometimes. I cleaned it up and straightened it up somewhat but im not sure if its working properly..

For this year of manual kick bike, when should that switch kill the engine or what is the normal operation? Hopefully someone can answer each of these questions, my guess is at the end of each question.

1. Bike in neutral, stand down, clutch in, run/start ok?
2. Bike in neutral, stand down, let clutch out, run/start ok?

3. Bike in gear, clutch in, stand down run/start ok?
4. Bike in gear, clutch letting out, stand down..kill?


5. My understanding is that the clutch switch trumphs all..hence why closing that circuit allows the bike to ignore what is happening with the kickstand and

6. the neutral switch in combo with the kickstand can kill the engine providing the clutch isnt in.

http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oe...78b118/stand-s


SWITCH,SIDE STAND27010-1189 $39

This looks like what I need. Anyone have a write up on where it plugs in? Looks like I may have to take a side cover off...or just cut the wires, solder and shrink wrap?
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