Originally Posted by stuntheavy
Thanks guys I'll give it another shot. I'm trying to convert the TAT maps into tracks.
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Here's some basics to remember (but you probably know some of this already).
At track is a set of points that lays out on the map like breadcrumbs. It doesn't change it is just there to show the path.
A route is where your gps tells you which way to go. If you use "Auto Routing" it is dynamic and will change as you travel - in other words it updates if you miss a turn etc.
If you have maps loaded you will find that routing on a TOPO map is point to point. So if you say I want to go from this point to that point it will draw a direct line to it (handhelds with TOPO maps assume you can cross the land and dont have to follow a road).
If you are routing with road maps like - NA 2013 aka North America Streets 2013 (or older versions) now it will route using a road "NOT A DIRECT LINE GOING POINT TO POINT" like in TOPO maps.
In either case, a track will still be a set of bread crumbs showing a path along the map (TOPO or Streets). This is why a lot of riders prefer to have tracks to follow.
I tried out Base Camp, but after having used both I prefer Map Source. I also have TOPO and Streets loaded on the PC so I can load either one.
Most times going on D/S rides I just use the Streets in my Garmin 60csx. I have found that even the smallest roads (some that dont qualify as a road) usually show up in the Streets maps.
I also like to have both tracks and routes. It takes a lot of time of you are trying to create both. The routes are easier and faster to make but once in a while they will send you way off track. Every once in a while I find that it doesn't realize that you can connect two roads together so it will send you miles out of the way to connect the next wayoint.
I have been using my Garmin for about 5 years now and I still get hung up once in a while - like last week in Arkansas I forgot that my 60csx only allows 500 points in a saved track. I loaded some tracks given to me and forgot to consolidate the tracks before downloading to handheld - well my hand held just stopped the track once it got to 500 so on the map while riding the track just ended prematurely. If i had used the consolidation trick before downloading it would not have happened. (in map source, if you right click and check the properties of a track, you can select the limit to maximum # like in my case 500) and it will automatically cut out all the redundant points (like 20 points in a straight line) but leave more points where there are lots of turns. You see the PC doesn't care how many points are in your track it is a limit of the handheld and mine "the 60csx" limits to 500 for saved tracks. I can log many more tracks on my 60CSX and up load them to PC - I have one track from last week where my gps logged over 4000 points - it is just the "saved track" files within the gps. I know this gets complicated. And this post is getting long winded! So if your buddy that has another brand gps that allows him to "Save" tracks larger than your gps will allow you to save - you will have to remember to consolidate your tracks to the number YOUR gps is limited to. I dont know what the Montana limits are but I suspect you can save tracks larger than 500 points. The 60csx is a great unit but it is dated and was originally intended "as a handheld" for hikers in mind so that 500 limit was one of the things that needed to be improved once it got popular with the wheeled crowds.
The best advice I can give is - DO THE TUTORIALS! And ride with other guys and ask questions. Sooner or later you're going to ride with someone that is savvy and will clear things up.