Originally Posted by flemsmith
Life stuff getting in the way. OK for me, but lousy fer the thread. Rebuilt both carbs, used 24 hr Pine Sol dip as first step. Usual extremely detailed step-by-step on Greg's site, This Old Tractor. Only issues in the rebuild were having to order insulating gaskets for the intakes, and the bolts that hold them, also the carb inlet fuel filter is not part of the rebuild kit. But on the right carb, the previous owner or mechanic had driven the float pivot rod so far into the body of the carb that I can't get it out without tearing up the floats and probably the rod. Will check and see if I can order the rod, and if so, will probably get a set of floats just for standby. Meanwhile, on that carb, I just cleaned around the float needle, hoping for the best.
The right carb fit fairly well, gonna hafta relocate the battery tender lead, and mebbe tie the Bunn breather hose a little different, also need to look for good example of the throttle cable routing..
The left carb won't fit without some re-routing, both the positive and negative battery cables need to move, not a big deal me thinks, just need to yank the battery first. The intake venturi tubes do fit inside the K&N's, just needed a little bit of heat gun to get the rubber a bit more compliant. I'm a little surprised that I don't need some sort of sealant between the intake manifolds and the carb body, fits really tight, but it's just metal to metal, seems like it could give me an air leak.
Those float pivot pins can be a bear. Some people tend to think then need to be driven into place. I just lightly set mine in there...it isn't like they can back out or go anywhere once the float bowl is in place. With the really tough ones, sometimes I can use a side cutter to get a better grab on them.
In your photos, you have the throttle cables on backwards. The end showing (with the metal elbow) fits to the throttle. The other end of the cable should just be the black cable with the little end cap on it. That is what fits into the adjuster on top of your carburetor.
As for routing, I bring them both straight up and a bit forward such that the cables are routed between the frame and the tank. The left one I route over to the right side under the top frame backbone. I leave both cables loose. I do use a *very loose* cable tie to keep them running together toward the right front of the tank (where they exit between the frame and the tank.
Your transmission vent (behind the starter) should not run straight down. Yes, I know it makes sense to run it like that, but it will puke oil like crazy when you run it straight down. Instead, route it straight up as high as you can. Then, you can either run it as far forward as you like or as far rearward as you like. When it is routed like this, it functions a bit like an engine breather and you will not have trouble with gear oil puking out of the vent hose (as it will all run back into the transmission).
Your battery ground cable will work great where you have it grounded (no worries). Originally, it would have been routed to the right side of the battery tray and secured to the bolt that goes through the right "ear" on the battery tray. Again, there is no need to change it around unless you want to.
I hope this helps!