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Old 04-19-2013, 01:05 PM   #38
pip_muenster OP
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Karlsruhe, Germany
Oddometer: 495

So here I was alone again and with a faulty cooling system on the bike. There was pressure in the system and the fan worked, but it seemed the coolant couldn't circulate well enough to - well - cool. It was however possibe to ride if I topped it up every now and then. Hym, the last full service had been right before the trip, and everything seemed alright back then, including all the piping etc.

I considered my options, and for some reason I was not very fond of riding the road to Marrakesh a 3rd time. Heavy offroading was also off the table under these circumstances. So I decided to head slowly back north and get the bike back to Spain. Hana could get me in contact with a trustworth workshop and I could then spend the rest of my vacation exploring Andalusia.

The road from Foum Zguid was for most parts gravel with long stretches being under construction. There were some detours here and there which made me question if I still was on the right road. The camels on this photo are coming down from the new road bed to the old gravel road. (I love these shots with dust or fog in backlighting!)

Getting closer to Zagora I was stopped by an oncoming Landcruiser. Wondering how I could be of any help to him, I took off my helmet. He explained he owned a garage in Zagora and I really had to come and see it, and he would love to take a photo of me for his wall. I declined kindly, it didn't seem like he had much experience with bikes or any more maintenaince than maybe an oilchange or topping up the washer fluid on a car ... He did make a photo of me for his wall before I left.

Nothing new in Zagora. I bought bread, water, extra water and filled up the gas tank. Then I left through the valley for the 3rd time. I took the same turn east following the MS1 into the moutains, only this time I headed towards Nekob. From here route MH4 on my GPS would take me to the Dades and Todra gorges.

The piste was rocky and bumpy and climbed up into the mountains. I was surprised when I met a couple two-up on a bike. Not the typical adventure type like a GS or KTM, but something more road oriented (I don't remember what it was.). They had probably bottomed out here and there and were going very slowly, but they made it through. According to the guidebook the route was doable without a 4x4 from north to south, but quite difficult in the opposide direction. I was going north.

I don't have photos of the more difficult parts of the track, as I couldn't stop there. Occasionally the base rock became the road surface and it had broken along its natural structure into a kind of steps. It was like riding up stairways for hundreds of meters at a time.

At the top were a few guesthouses and other tourist traps as there was another easier road leading here from the other side. I passed them and reflected happily that I just had road up a mountain in 2nd and 3rd gear for hours without any overheating.
The last bit was asphalt and due to the height also a bit cold. A few minutes later the engine warning light came back on.

My map told me that I could either head west to the Dades gorge or east towards Todra. With the dark clouds hanging over Dades I opted for Todra.

I was freezing cold when I got there and had a hard time negotiating the room price as he could see me shivering. He showed me 2 rooms and advertised the air condition in one of them. Air condition? I'm freezing already what do I need an AC for?
Now where I live people never need AC, so it took me a while to understand that the AC unit could also be used as a heater. Great, I take it. The hotel was build in the style of a Kasbah and therefore poorly isolated. I put the AC on max. power and choose the bed next to it. Even hours later the other bed a meter away was still freezing cold ...

One funny side note: The hotel did have a locked parking lot with a night guard, but they asked me to park the bike in front of the entrance for the evening. This way it could be seen from the street and attract other guests.. Smart advertising. For the night we brought it back in under the roof.
Reports: Nordkapp - Mt. St. Helen - Black Sea - Iceland - Morocco - Balkan

pip_muenster screwed with this post 12-29-2014 at 02:08 PM Reason: oh, my memory ...
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