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Old 04-21-2013, 03:57 AM   #40
pip_muenster OP
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Karlsruhe, Germany
Oddometer: 410
Melilla

I woke up shivering. They had switched off the central heating in the middle of the night and the room was freezing cold. There was nothing, but a thin blanket and my sleeping bag was with on my bike somewhere. After putting on more clothes and covered by my jacket I made it through the night. With a coffee and some bread and jam for breakfast I got going again. Slowly, the Atlas mountains disappeared behind me.

I don't remember much of this day, in my memory I had been following the N15 going straight north all day. Although I never went faster than 80kph, almost no one ever passed me. Most traffic was slower. There was one older Merc taxi which overtook me a few times that afternoon, only so that I could pass it while it stopped to pick up passengers here and there.

Mellila was a bit of a shock for me. I hadn't been aware that it's a Spanish enclave and was expecting a ferry port like Tangier. Instead it was 4 or 5 packed lanes of cars pushing and honking to get to the border. I didn't feel well and wasn't in the mood for lane splitting, so I just kept my spot, although people encoraged me to go ahead. I had all the time in the world, why bother. According to the GPS it took me 75min to cross the border, it had felt like more. Not too bad.
Of course there was a man who wanted my money to give guidance through the border process. The same reasons which kept me from lane splitting kept me from accepting his offer. He spoke 3 or 4 languages, including German, and explained that I would actually need his help, he had a big family to feed, and quite a large part of it was to bribe the officer anyway, but I wasn't in the mood for this.
Ii turned out that he was actually a very nice man when he run after me to let me know that I had forgotten to get the export stamp for the bike in my passport. There was some bewilderment on his side noticing a KSA visa in it: 'Wow, you've been on a hadj?!' (No, they would have never let me into Mekkah - but I didn't comment on that.) He guided me to the right officer (no bribery here), proposing that I could just give him money afterwards, if I felt so.
Then we said farewell and I gave him all the Moroccan money I had left to me. Coincidentally it was exactly half of his original quote.

I rolled into the city and checked on the ferry to Malaga. There was a ferry the next morning, so I would need a hotel for the night. After looking for a cheap one without much success, I just asked my GPS to give me directions to the nearest one. My first question was about heating, then I asked for the price. I had a look at the room which had a nice clean bath tub and wasn't too expensive, so I got off my luggage and parked my bike in an underground car park nearby. The hot bath was perfect.
The WiFi was down, so I went downstairs and asked the receptionist for a nearby internet cafe as I wanted to book the ferry. One of the two girls behind the counter offered to take me there and spend the evening / night with me: 'Why not, don't you have money?' I couldn't believe that a normal hotel, right in the city center, would have hookers at the front desk!

So I walked the streets alone and had some pizza and a last
Thé à la Menthe. No luck with WiFi.
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Reports: Nordkapp - Mt. St. Helen - Black Sea - Iceland - Morocco - new: Balkan
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