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Old 05-03-2013, 08:20 PM   #53
swamp OP
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Joined: Feb 2007
Location: lower appalachia, Alabama
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mexistan and central bunghole

Oxkutzcab to Jose Maria Morelos: Same Day




super nerd map 1: its more clear if you bump up the quality on the youtube video

Jose wakes me up from a power sleep. The tire and tubes had arrived.

The tire that had arrived via scooter delivery from Merida was more of a cruiser style tire with high sidewalls. I didn’t think it was going to fit the rear rim, but we got it on there and then onto the bike. I don’t like the way this is looking. Its super close to my swing arm and the axle is as far toward the rear of the bike as it will go (no more slack in the chain)..hmm.

I ride it up and down the street a few times and it feels fine. I jump a few topas with it and it still feels fine. I pop a wheelie because Jose wants me to and it still feels fine. I haul ass and slam on the rear brake and slide it sideways to a stop… it still feels fine. So I guess its fucking fine. I have to go forward.

I go back inside to say my goodbyes to his two kids and his wife. Super nice people here, amazing how nice everyone has been to me. They even offered me a pork sandwich but I had began my protein bar munching at this point. The total for all of that running around delivering and finding a tire, tubes (had more spares now) came to 1,100 pesos which I thought was worth it, as I had made myself a giant pain in their asses for the better part of the day; I tried to give them more but they wouldn’t take it.




((“Must keep going”)) I ask Jose to look at my GPS unit and find the nearest town to the South with a hotel in it. He tells me that they are all mostly small but he knows for sure that Morelos has a few. Jose Maria Morelos it is then. It was around 15:00 when I left the llentera and I remember feeling like a hair dryer was blowing on me.

I ride Yucatan 18 through Tekax de Alvaro Obregon then through Tzucacab. Just after Tzucacab I find that both sides of the road just happen to be on fire. There is smoke everywhere, I get the impression that someone was attempting to perform a controlled burn.. but it got out of control. I followed the road on like this through the smoke and fire past Catmis; the smoke finally let up approximately four miles before Dziuche. Trust me, it was hotter than a whore’s cooter at closing time.


16:15 Jose Maria Morelos

As I enter town I notice that there is quite a large concentration of Federal Police trucks in the area. Each truck bed carries 4 or 5 stone faced police with automatic rifles, body armor and gloved hands that hold onto the roll cage surrounding the bed of the trucks. The military is also patrolling the main streets here. They have camouflaged trucks and large turret-mounted machine guns in the beds of their trucks. I thought it was best not to take pictures of them. Pretty sure the police would have started harassing me if they saw me pointing a camera at them. I have no idea why there were so many of them.

At the end of the town there is a gas station. I figure I’ll stop here, fill up the bike then ride back into town to get a hotel for the night. As I get off the bike a squat, pot-bellied & bearded man comes out of a detached building, walks up to me and says:

Squat n’ bearded: “ I am a motorcycle brother”

me: “ really hell yea man!...?”

Squat n’ bearded: “ today is for me.. umm no no no.. today is for YOU and tomorrow is for ME YES!!”

Me: “ok nice!”

He then tells me that he will pay for my full tank of gas. I’m really thrown off by this guy’s enthusiasm and friendliness. He starts looking over the bike while asking me questions about it and other questions about where I’m from and where I’m going. I notice that his right eye points towards his right ear and his left eye points to his left ear ((“how can this guy possibly see things that are directly in front of him?... like how can he possibly read anything? How can he eat nachos and burritos ? Surely this is a being from another world.. an extra-terrestrial” )). That’s when he points at my rear tire and says: “Ohh this is very daaangerous for you”. “aww! Mmmrrrfff “







I head back into the center of town, do a U-turn and a cop with a 12 gauge casually steps off the sidewalk to stand in front of my bike with one hand up in the air then proceeds to babble his displeasures upon me. I have no clue what this guy is saying to me so I start looking around and see a NO U-TURN sign ((“oh”)). I try my best to explain that I didn’t see it which comes out as “me no mire” stuttered out three times in a row. The cop writes an imaginary ticket and then throws it in the air; he points at me then points down the road.


The Sol Maya Hotel is a three story building. The first floor is occupied by a small shop that sells plastic trinkets, piñatas and room temperature beverages out of a non-working refrigeration unit. There is a dirt alley next to the building where I park the bike. Just inside of the piñata shop there is a big blue arrow that reads: “recepción” and is pointing up a flight of stairs.
As I get to the second floor of the building I hear someone shouting angrily from downstairs. A guy about my age runs up the stairs, stops directly in front of me, gives me the “what the hell do you think you are doing ASSHOLE?” double arm gesture…while babbling his displeasures upon me.
Turns out that he was pissed off because I didn’t stop to check-in downstairs at reception. I point at the “recepción” sign and say “huh ? recepción”.

He chills out and waves for me to follow him. The guy keeps giving me an eat shit look as I’m paying him for the room and trying to ask him if my bike will be safe in the alley overnight. The answer is something like: “ I guess so”. Good enough for me.


One HUGE bonus about the Sol Maya Hotel is that sitting 50 feet away from the Sol Maya Hotel is a freaking YAMAHA shop. Surely they will have an 18” tire that will properly fit my bike…
GPS Coordinate for YAMAHA shop, Jose Maria Morelos: N19.74943 W88.70921

Sol Maya Hotel: 250 pesos/ night. Air conditioning, clean rooms, Hot water, soap, towel they have weefee but its more of a frustration than an asset. Use same coordinates as above.

After explaining (well, more pointing at the problem than explaining) my situation to the three guys working at the shop they tell me to roll the bike in to their service area. We begin “The communication process” which concludes in a familiar way. They don’t have a tire in stock that will fit my bike and they are the best bike shop in town. I can tell that they really don’t want to fuck with this problem but I keep pressing.

I get them to call a different shop in Chetumal (a larger city 123 miles away, near the Belize border). I tell them that any brand 18” tire will work as long as it is a 110/100, a 110/90 or 110/80. The shop in Chetumal has ONE that will fit. I tell the guy to get it here as fast as possible. He tells me that it will be here tomorrow around 9:00… and the bike can stay in their shop for the night.

Back to the hotel I go to eat protein bars, listen to music, monkey with the GPS unit






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swamp screwed with this post 05-03-2013 at 08:36 PM
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