Thanks for a great ride report. I really appreciate a guy that doesn't have to load up a $20K BMW or Goldwing with thousands of dollars of electronic gear and mapping software, multiple GPS's an such to enjoy a multi-thousand mile ride around the country. Like you, I don't camp much anymore, I really need a bed, a shower, FOX News, a little internet time, and a place to plug in my CPAP machine. But those needs seem to come with age, the ride is what's important, and you, my friend, have done the ride.
You've has given me much to think about. Being a seasoned (old) and long time touring rider (45 years and almost 400,000 miles) and much like you a paper map guy, I'm re-thinking the whole big bike thing. My DL1000 is getting to the point that if she decides to take a nap it's a real struggle to get her back on her feet. (or perhaps at 67 I'm just not as capable of picking her up as I used to be) I'm thinking a Helix or something similar might be the answer, light, reliable, and capable.
Thanks again, Mike