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Old 05-15-2013, 08:51 AM   #108
JagLite OP
Beastly Adventurer
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Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Anchorage Alaska
Oddometer: 1,437
Cool2 Suspension mods

Originally Posted by ADVwanaB View Post
how do you plan to lower the rear?
what did you use for spacers on the front to lower it?
I would like to lower my DR about the same as you have and install a 19" front wheel. It has to be balanced though right? or the rake will be too steep.
Rear lowering:
When I had Cogent Dynamics rebuild the stock shock into a double clicker with full adjustment I had him internally limit the travel to about 8" (at the wheel).
Then I had him install an adjustable height bottom clevis so I can play with ride height.
I have it set so the rear end is about 3" lower than stock.
Ride height is different from stock since the removable subframe and TT seat are lower than the stock frame and seat.
That means my seat is lower than a stock bike would have with the factory lowering.

Front lowering:
I used steel tube that I had on hand for the fork spacers.
Thick wall PVC or ABS could easily be used and is cheap and light.
The spacers only limit the travel and are under very little load.
The original top-out spring is still retained on the damper rod with the new spacers so that there is no instant hit against the spacers.
There is a little load on the spacers when the forks are fully extended when jumping or doing a wheelie.

Keep in mind that the stock spring is too long to put longer spacers (than the stock ones) in.
The problem would be that you could not push the spring down enough to install the fork cap.
So, depending on how much you want to lower your bike, the spacer you will use on the damper rod to limit upward travel will determine how much of the stock spring you will want to cut off.
An easy way would be to figure your desired front end drop, install a spacer that length on the damper rod, reassemble the fork leg and drop the spring in.
Then mark the spring at the top of the fork tube, take it out and cut it off at that height.
Cut the tight coil end and this will make your forks stiffer and enable you to still play with preload spacers on top of the spring if you want.
You can cut the springs shorter too if you want.

If you are going to cut more of the spring off than the length of your limit spacers, be sure to figure out coil bind length using this chart:

If you are using aftermarket fork springs which are usually (always?) shorter than stock for the DR you may not need to cut them and I wouldn't recommend cutting them.
At least until after you have ridden it and see how stiff they are for your weight.

Balanced lowering is a good start for handling.
You may find you like the front lowered more than the rear as that will make the steering quicker or a bit more twitchy feeling.
The motard bikes drop from a 21" wheel to a 17" wheel on the front and most don't lower the rear to compensate.
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