With the side winds and rain abating it was time to leave the safe haven of the hotel and head into the mountains for a trail that should lead us to Mostar
As we climbed higher on a pretty rocky trail the fog started to thicken and got to a point where we could only see 10 metres ahead of us
As we climbed a hill and rounded a corner we stumbled across a guy in a truck picking up logs. As I got off the bike to take a photo he climbed down out of his seat and after we exchanged a few pleasantries by sign language and he found out we were Australian he got a bit excited and invited us into his home for pivo and coffee.
I thought pivo was some type of tea but as he pulled out the beers - at 9 in the morning - I gathered it wasn't tea. I politely declined the offer, I wasn't sure what to expect on this trail so wanted my wits about me
People are totally fascinated by Patty and her skin and that she's riding on a motorbike. Complete strangers will walk up to her asking for a photo or exchange a smile.
We spent the next hour or so in their kitchen eating biscuits and drinking coffee. He was proud when he whipped out his $100 aussie note but wasn't happy when his mate tested if it would burn and singed the edge of it with his lighter. We were so grateful for their hospitality and wanted to leave them something but we didn't have anything, so we took their address and promised to send them the photos we took.
After we left the house the trail was better maintained and passed a couple of houses
A concrete road stretched for a couple of k's through a village
and back onto some gravel roads. Big wide open roads and not a single car in sight, rocky in places but mostly fast
In the middle of nowhere we came across some sealed road but as quickly as it appeared it disappeared again
These blocks seem to have some type of inscription on them.
Further along we started to climb again and the landscape became littered with rocks and abandoned buildings
You could tell if a place is abandoned or not by its windows - if they had glass they weren't abandoned.
The road was one continous rocky ride, stretching for about 20k's or more.
Deep down in the valley below is a village nestled between the mountains
As we approached this puddle I assumed it was relatively deep but expected it to be rocky underneath - I'd been riding cricket sized rocks the last 20k's why should this puddle be any different, right? Wrong! We had our first "oh fuck" moment as the bike instantly sunk from the weight and continued to sink as I got the outriggers out and tried kicking it along. I was close to dropping it so asked Patty to get off - not on the bank side though there could be mines - time to get the boots wet
. As she trudged through the mud I kicked and heaved the beast out, sweating a little but glad we didn't end up with a drowned bike that would have been almost impossible for the two of us to pick up loaded. Patty was more worried about being stuck in bear country
It was cold and wet again
We carried on eager to be out of the rain and eventually reached civilisation again. Tuna patte and cheese spread sandwiches, a favoured snack of the trip
We snaked our way down the mountain on a single lane sealed road into Mostar.
A great view and noticeably absent of concrete and sealed roads on the outskirts, if only every city had less of it.
We planned to stay in a hotel but at at 40 euro we skipped that idea and found a nice spot by the lake just outside Mostar
A bit of luxury, table and chairs that the old man at reception brought out for us
The peace was shortlived though as a huge electrical storm drenched our stuff through the night
We planned to stop by the famous bridge in Mostar on our way to Dubrovnik, Croatia but we were keen to hit the road and didn't fancy walking around.
Back in Croatia
The famous walled city of Dubrovnik
Drinks on the wall, now this is a holiday
Next up we duck back into Bosnia for some exploring through Montenegro and into Albania