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Old 06-17-2013, 01:06 PM   #26
Plaka
Brevis illi vita est
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Oddometer: 4,584
Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
Pay attention. Important stuff was already relayed to you but you missed it because you don't see what is coming up.

#1...Buy only the good tool. It is strong enough for this job. It is called a triple square. A cheaper tool will sometimes break. Get the triple square socket from either Northwoods or Cycle Works. Both addresses are already in this thread. Do not try to remove the rod bolts with a socket that seems to fit "close enough". The proper tool fits. An improper fitted tool may ruin the rod bolt and it will then have to be cut out with a torch which will ruin the crank.

#2...It is a rod big end bearing. Do learn the proper name for stuff because it will save money and time in the future. A main bearing is also on the crankshaft. It is what holds the crank in the engine block. The main bearings are important but they are not the same as the rod bearings. So far you suspect a problem with a rod bearing. The rods also have a small end bearing. It's where the wrist pin or gudgeon pin is.

The rod bearings are easy to replace. They don't even cost a lot of money. But when they go bad there is a chance of problems with the crankshaft. It is the crankshaft that is the most concern at the moment. Get the piston off and the rod off the crank and you will be able to see the crank journal. Try to take a picture of the crank journal.

Do not throw any parts away. You may need these rod bolts for temporary assembly but they will not be used in final assembly. You should mark them somehow, a dab of paint works well but you could also cut a small notch in the heads with a file. Entire engines have been ruined because somebody reused the rod bolts. Don't make this mistake.

I know that there seems to be too much extraneous information sometimes. You will have to figure out what parts are real. You are in the big league with this level of engine repair.
Mine is a Power built. Low end of mid quality...but not harbor Fright low end. I've used for years and years and years...starting to show a bit of wear. A better one wouldn't show any. But at $8 for a set of four I'm money ahead.

http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648.../dp/B002INV1TQ

The Lisle ones are better and usually available locally:

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-60750-Po...sim_sbs_auto_2

This one is plenty for the job @$4:

http://www.amazon.com/Tools-2305-10M...quare+bit+10mm

But as soon as you go to a 3/8 drive style you get bend over for another $10:

http://www.amazon.com/Vim-XZN110-Tri...productDetails

Probably longer lasting but if it's just sitting in the tool box unused the money could have been better spent. If you're planning on making a living at it or get off on the pride-of-ownership thing, buy almost all Snap-On.

Supply your own junky 1/2 socket and sticking it in with chewing gum saves quite a bit. I came across a homeless Crescent socket and splurged on the hot glue. I used it without for a long time. If I ever blow up the socket I could care less.


The really junk tools may have a poor fit and that will beat up a fastener, even at the low torques these things see. I use better tools for the things I do a lot, they last. I use the junk for where they go in harms way and get used rarely (behind seat of truck). I also have a bin full of Husky and other lower mid grade sockets, wrenches, extensions, ratchets and whatnot. Score 'em at yard sales for a dollar or so a box full. Handy for dedicating to this or that. Like the 1/2" allen on my dedicated rod bolt tool.

So..um..tell me how this broken rod bolt thing works again? I gather you mean stripping the splines somehow? And then not being able to drill it somehow? You don't have to easy out it--thing only engages the cap. Torch??? You know a guy named Tom Cutter? (as in, real well?)


One important tool for this little job is a small towel. As you slide the cylinder outward you slip the towel in so when the piston/rod assembly drops free it don't ding the spigot hole in the block.

A small deadblow hammer (go real cheap) and a careful touch is nice for freeing stuck cylinders. I have literally dozens of hammers. I actually used the solid lead one (legacy from my old MG) to smack on a wrench with the other day---just to use it. It had been years.

As long as you know you're pulling the rod, leave the piston attached to it and take that apart on the bench.

So not mix anything up in the slightest..not even switching a pushrod end for end. So lots of paper towels to wipe oil, baggies, tape, a sharpie, etc.

Back at the thrift store (and yard sales) I score old bread pans, baking sheets, brownie pans, etc. Keep it under .50 ea. Real nice for segregating gooey parts as you go along. Easy to clean and store when done. I end up with a lot of little projects piled in them.
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