+1 ER70-S. Also set the engine to top dead center before removing the tensioner.
Do you have to put the motor at TDC ? The service manual doesn't mention this and you're not the first to give me this advice? Can you educate me on why?
Having the motor at TDC of the compression stroke removes all tension against the cam lobes by the valves springs. This allows the tensioner to full extend when it is placed back in position because there will be no load on the cam shaft. The tensioner does not have the power to overcome the reverse tension placed on it by valve springs so there is a chance of starting your engine with excess slop in the front run of the cam chain if you attempt to install it with a load on the chain.
Don't do this project when you're in a hurry, even though the gasket is small, it's a PITA to remove; mine was fused to the cylinder. And you really don't want to gouge the gasket surface. You'll need to remove the oil lines and exhaust header so there's room to work.
Before reinstalling the CCT, the plunger needs to be retracted. There's a retract screw, under the screw on the left end. Turn it CW to retract the plunger, it should latch. If it doesn't latch, just hold the plunger screw as you tighten the two CCT bolts. The plunger will NOT retract when pushed straight in; you have to keep the pressure off the plunger as you tighten the CCT.
If it latched retracted, once it's installed, turn the retract screw (opposite of retract) to release the plunger. Do NOT forget this.
The screwdriver will spin in your fingers as the plunger extends.
Originally Posted by procycle
Even though they are supposed to lock, my experience has been that only 1 out of 3 will lock securely enough to install without it extending before you get it all the way on.
The retract screw lives in here: