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Old 08-21-2013, 07:01 PM   #16
crashmaster
ow, my balls!
 
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Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Girdweed, AK
Oddometer: 5,004
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbone11 11 View Post
Also agree totally on the damper....heard it'll basically save you from dropping the bike in the soft stuff.
Well, thats not exactly the reason for a damper. Its primary purpose is to mitigate tank slappers induced by front wheel deflections.

To ride sand, get your ass off the seat, attack position, keep your ass and weight back, constant throttle, loose grip on the bars, let the front wander how it wants, and steer the bike with the pegs. Dont chop the throttle, and never, ever touch the front brake. The damper will come into play when the front deflects off a rock or rut.

Keep a tube in the front. Excel A60, oversized spokes, HD or UHD tube. I ran a sealed rear wheel for a while and I liked it. I ran all kinds of tires on it, tube type, tubeless etc, and they all worked fine. The downside of running a tubeless rear IMO is that you cant really air it down too much or you'll ding the rim and lose the seal or possibly break the bead over rocks. Another down side is that when the tire starts to get worn and chewed up by sharp rocks it will leak air. If you put in a can of fix a flat to seal it up again, the chemicals will start eating away at the spoke nipple sealant after a while and it will leak through the spokes. However for pavement and gravel roads where I kept the pressure up in the 30's, I like the tubeless rear since flat repair was a 5 minute deal. Although real tubeless rim is the best option if you want to go tubeless IMO.

Yes, the stock forks are under sprung. Some folks simply put in heavier springs, some do the springs and re-valve. I would recommend Superplush suspension in San Fran. James knows the big KTM's and I have been very happy with his work. I left my rear shock stock as it worked well enough for me, but a Superplush re-valve would improve it as well IMO.
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crashmaster screwed with this post 08-21-2013 at 07:28 PM
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