Thread: I bought one!
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Old 08-29-2013, 12:26 AM   #26
Katoom72
Studly Adventurer
 
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Belgium
Oddometer: 822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Orangecicle View Post
OK, not the shop guru, but:

1. Is there a free manual?

No. Buy the CD from your dealer or on-line.

2. Can the cylinders be bored or oversized?

No. Don't try. The cylinders have nikasil coatings that are either OK or . . . buy new cylinders. If you need a new cylinder, there's a guy in Orange Crush who just switched out his 950 for a 990SD replacement. Find that guy!


3. Best place to buy parts.

That depends. I like to shop online and buy locally. My local dealer will usually do what they can to match on-line pricing. Or, just buy locally and pay full fare. You need a local shop that can help you. I generally pay local prices if they are somewhat close to online prices because I like the local guys and they do A LOT to help me out. Build a relationship if you can. My local shop is only a KTM dirtbike shop. But the guys are awesome, and the knowledge they have about single-cylinder KTMs translates easily into the V-twin KTMs.

4. Head work.

Head work on the KTM is usually simple. Of course, mileage on the motor may drive a different conclusion, but my motor with about 34K on it just needed a valve lapping, new valve seals, and a very minor surfacing to clean up the aluminum so that it would cleanly accept the new head gasket. It's a much bigger issue if you need the valve guides changed out. My heads were fine in this respect.

Valve lapping is a very simple process of just using a tool and some lapping material to resurface each valve to its mating surface in the head. Easily done with a little work.

Valve seals come off with needle-nose pliers and go back on with an appropriate-sized socket. Very easy.

The heads just need a very minor touching to clean them. We did that at my local motorcycle shop just using an old marble block on which was mounted a sheet of wet sandpaper. You just have to clean the surfaces so that you have a nice smooth surface to work with for the new gasket, and you are good to go. Nothing more. Very simple.
Nikasil can be removed and recoated, or is the nikasil not the reason to throw the cilinders away? (just curious)

I have had nikasil clinders welded and bored and then recoated.
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