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Old 09-30-2013, 10:36 PM   #12
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Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Newcastle
Oddometer: 49
The ride on to Osh the following day was a hot but relaxed one, taking my time as the traffic grew heavier and heavier. Once into osh I went directly back to the workshops for Damila to work on a few things that I had discovered on my ride down. Both front & rear brakes needed adjusting along with a leaking carb and the points ign. to be tuned. As I pull in the manager makes a crack about why i want "soviet piece of shit" for as he's got some big touring bikes that he's trying to offload (probably stolen too).

Damila was very busy at the time so the next morning it was to be addressed. Another item on my shopping list was a 20 liter canister. From last years experience, In the Pamirs I averaged around 8L/100km. With my sights set on the Bartang valley I was going to need over a 400km range So the 20 litre tank wasn't going to quite cut it. I originally was looking for a ex-mil steel jerry can but these were actually quite hard to come by. On my way to yet another bazaar in the stifling heat my taxi driver had mentioned he had some canisters at home, so we detour to his house and he fetches me a plastic one, which just so happens to be 20L. i think for a second and reason this is even better if the bike falls over on to its side as the soft plastic can absorb the impacts a lot better.
I am happy with it and we part ways after him dropping me at the bazaar, I pick up some rope and another occy strap to keep it in place located on top of the passengers right foot peg.
I was happy with my efforts for the day So found a nice beer garden and enjoyed a couple Cold drafts.
The next morning I meet Damila at the workshops at 11 he's just finishing up on the Ural and then takes her out for a test ride and comes back smiling and tells me I should take it and see what i think, what a transformation not just with having brakes now that actually brake but the torque from the engine too. thoroughly impressed i have no problem forking over the 20$ for his 2 hours work. He asks me where I'm headed this year and I mention Tajikistan and the Afghan Wakhan then I plan to be back here in 6 weeks, He tells me to come back in and that he will buy my bike. we shake on it and I ride back to the hotel to collect my bags.

On my way to Sary-tash.

I thought coming back to Central Asia it would in someway detract from my experiences last year, but riding up to Sary-tash it was bringing back some great memories coupled with making new ones. A thunderstorm rolled by while i took refuge under a large overhanging rock for 30mins before continuing on to Sary-tash. the weather did not look good neither did the forcast. I was planning to ride up to Lenin base camp but with the mountains engulfed in blackness I thought i would just stay the night at my old guesthouse from the year before.

Sary-Tash.

I settle in unloading my bags before heading to the store to pick up some supplies for my next week in the Pamirs.

A 10yr old shop keeper pours me 50gms.

In the morning my Tajik visa begins, I wake up to strong winds and cold rain, So much for my plans I tell myself as I peer through the windows at breakfast. come mid morning though the weather starts to show signs of improvement then it even starts to dry up, so today's the day after all. A quick pack after I put on almost all my clothes that i have, in anticipation of the high border pass and then one last fuel stop. Having 20l of fuel hanging off the side of my bike i really thought once i push it off the center stand i would have some problems but with my tools and cooking equipment in my side bag, i think i brought it back to being perhaps 10kg and didn't really notice anything out of the ordinary while riding.
Riding up to Kyzyl-art pass first the rain starts again, then Hail. The Kygyz border guards put on lunch and some hot tea before I head out into the 25kms of no-mans land between the borders. By the time i reach the pass its snowing but can see blue sky off into the distance.
No hassles from the Tajik Guards who are more interested in the Ural than my passport but then stamp me in.


Riding out of Kyrgyzstan.










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