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Old 10-04-2013, 02:42 AM   #19
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Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Newcastle
Oddometer: 51

In Ghudara Village.

Just 10km south of camp lay Ghudara Village, riding through, many arms went up waving for me to come over and stop, So with it being breakfast time that's exactly what I did. The Pamiri houses are simple, open plan rock homes with a mud rendering. From the outside they don't look like much, often painted in plain white or left untouched. Inside though, the raised platform for eating and sleeping around 5 pillars is covered in colorful rugs along with the walls. The roof with exposed beams steps up 5 times in the center (5 pillars of Islam) to the skylight that floods the room with natural light. I'm treated to never ending bread, yoghurt and tea and countless questions while they all huddle around watching me devour their food bite by bite.

Still More Descending.

Continuing on traffic increased from seeing villages hearding their goats to even a tourist land cruiser with the occupants faces all plastered to the inside windows as we pass each other. The hard pack road improves modestly through the day, crossing long sandy sections to find slippery cobble stones that lead up to a steep section prove challenging but the Ural bounces up the road without missing a beat. Further down into the next village of no more than a dozen homes I am asked in for tea and apricots. While my bike is leaning up against a tree in the front yard, their tethered donkey tries to violate my bike until the owner runs over and is yelling and laughing at the same time for it to settle down. Its a bit of laugh and I ride on with a clean seat to Savnob.

River Cobbles makes for tough going.


Tourist screwed with this post 10-04-2013 at 08:16 PM
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