10-04-2013, 08:35 PM
Joined: Dec 2012
Mosilton my host in Savnob.
Go to any village in The Bartang and ask where a guesthouse is and they will simply say, "why every house is a guesthouse". A really open and friendly reception welcomed me into Savnob, Nice and comfortable homestay with good food put on. Mosilton my host was a real character. Just after I had settled in she brought around 3 young ladies to meet me and said "just pick one!, this one good for cooking, this one good for washing..." After my blind dates left she then went on to give me grief for not bringing her any moisturizer as she hand cuts the families wheat with a sickle, pulls up the potatoes and hand washes wool for making Pamiri socks to then sell on to markets in Khorog.
Savnob village was nice to be able to just walk around and listen to the wind blow through the wheat watching people go about their daily chores in the village with the afternoon sun on your face. The locals that saw me wandering would invite me over to their gardens and give me handfuls of apricots, Bread & tea no matter how much I tried to resist. From my experience this kind of hospitality is on par with northern Pakistan and Iran in which I believe has to be some of the best in the world.
The next morning I did some maintenance checks, Haven't burned or leaked too much oil since Karakul, I'm impressed - Fuel was running low, so I dumped 15l into the tank then Climbed out of Savnob past the weather station here I'm met with the view of Peak Communism but now known as Ismoil Somoni Peak, Tajikistan's highest mountain at 7495m.
Looking back the way we came, from here on its all down hill.
The peak is shrouded in cloud so I press on dropping in elevation throughout the day, The road improves also, making the riding much more enjoyable but its tough riding in such a scenic place to actually keep the concentration on the road and whats coming up it. As I get down to river level and in a few instances below river level, I'm wondering if it the road is going to be closed the further downstream I go, The worst section being high enough to lick the underside of the carbs.
Down to river level.
Down stream river levels almost stopping me.
Leaving the Ural behind and heading across and up to Jizev valley for an over nighter.
I do like mountains but after being in the Pamirs I have to say I prefer to ride up them than hike.
Jizev's first village.
and the 2nd.
Spring water Vs Snow Melt.
The Simple Life.