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Old 10-19-2013, 11:49 AM   #282
Sporting Wood OP
I <3 Energizer Bunny
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Horneytown, NC
Oddometer: 896
Originally Posted by Thumper996 View Post
Well after several thousand miles over the summer i gotta say this is the best mod i have done to the bike second to suspension rework. I have decided i am going to give the 50 IAJ's a try again and drop my needle and see where i land. Current setup is 99% what i want, but when stone cold the bike can be a bit of a PITA to start even with enricher's. Have a ever so barely noticeable surge when cruising, i mean i can barley feel it.

I bet based on your EXPERT testing if i drop down to 50 IAJ's and change needles to slot 4 (possibly 3) instead of slot 5 i will fix those two issues.

Current Setup (Aggressive Street Sport Riding):
FMF cans
Part Factory Pro kit and Part H2W kit for my jetting
Main Jets 170R / 168F
Pilot Jet #45
Needles Factory Pro Ti needle 5 position from top
IMS screws 2.5 turns (Flex-Jet installed for easy adjustment)
Air Jet #70 as supplied by H2W to replace stock #50
Float Height 3.5MM
I'd recommend to get rid of the fat airjets, drop the needle to the middle and dial it in with float height. I personally approach the 950 like this. I swap to 165/168 mains, fp needle at 3, 4mm floats and 45 pilots. If the bike has a hard time accepting the 45s, I'll drop down back to the 42's. I think that the 950's vary a lot due to cam timing tolerance from the factory. The crank turns the counterbalancer, then that turns the cam chain, then theres the hydraulic tensioners that kinda well, suck...not to mention the variation in the location of gear teeth to the cam lobes. Some bikes I have seen have some problems closing the front cylinder quick enough. 8 out of 10 though, run great with the aforementioned baseline. From there, once determining whether or not the 45's will work on the bike, I move to tweaking the mains for top end best hp and afr. Then its on to the needle position, what works best at 4000 rpm to transition. At this point, low end is fine tuned in with the float height. Could be a little lean and need more fuel below 4k, but its more often than not right on with 4mm floats. screws are fine adjusters, I lock the throttle and run at 2000 rpm, turning the screws for best rpm. I have been known to pull a plug and do this to each cylinder individually but its rare.

Originally Posted by Hondo View Post
Ordered for my 2011 990 Adventure Dakar.

Anyone know what size filterskins to get?
AFAIK, there is no filterskin for the big filter. There is one available that fits the domed SE version filter. I don't have them, nor really recommend them. I have used filter skins and they work well enough but I find it tiresome that they clog up so quickly. In baja, its a daily exercise to swap the things on my thumper. For that reason, I think its a better alternative to use another filter that socks over the primary. ITG makes one that I am currently testing with good results. Have some on order and will put them up in the store when they arrive. I like this approach as it is easily cleaned and reused, more cost effective long run and most importantly filters the air properly for a long time before it needs to be cleaned. This filter sock is the same two layer foam as in the filter and thus effectively doubles the filters capacity too.

Originally Posted by CMurgel View Post
also want to use this setup but don't know anything about what map would be indicated for my bike and setup.

Have no experience with tune ecu. My bike is stock with a bmc filter and SAS et al.

Thanks for any info

Tune ECU is reasonably easy. Read the TuneECU thread in the OC. One of my customers is working on a step by step tutorial I will post once its ready. Nice thing about it is that you don't get your hands smelling of gas as you do with jets. Only takes seconds to remap too, which is very nice. I have the components for the wire coming in and I will soon offer the wire at considerable savings to my customers.
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