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Old 10-20-2013, 08:03 PM   #284
Studly Adventurer
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Joined: Jun 2009
Oddometer: 593
Originally Posted by Sporting Wood View Post
I'd recommend to get rid of the fat airjets, drop the needle to the middle and dial it in with float height. I personally approach the 950 like this. I swap to 165/168 mains, fp needle at 3, 4mm floats and 45 pilots. If the bike has a hard time accepting the 45s, I'll drop down back to the 42's. I think that the 950's vary a lot due to cam timing tolerance from the factory. The crank turns the counterbalancer, then that turns the cam chain, then theres the hydraulic tensioners that kinda well, suck...not to mention the variation in the location of gear teeth to the cam lobes. Some bikes I have seen have some problems closing the front cylinder quick enough. 8 out of 10 though, run great with the aforementioned baseline. From there, once determining whether or not the 45's will work on the bike, I move to tweaking the mains for top end best hp and afr. Then its on to the needle position, what works best at 4000 rpm to transition. At this point, low end is fine tuned in with the float height. Could be a little lean and need more fuel below 4k, but its more often than not right on with 4mm floats. screws are fine adjusters, I lock the throttle and run at 2000 rpm, turning the screws for best rpm. I have been known to pull a plug and do this to each cylinder individually but its rare.
Funny - 168/165 mains 45 pilot and 3rd slot on FP needle was where i was before i put filter kit on. I will go back to that and change the 70's back to 50's and consider float from 3.5mm to 4mm.

Thanks for response and advise
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