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Old 01-29-2006, 09:22 AM   #63
Donkey Hotey
De Jo Momma
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Joined: Aug 2005
Location: 20 Mule Team Trail (Palmdale, Ca)
Oddometer: 12,178
Originally Posted by rockt
...he would want to figure it out and be able to trust the work. Does this change your recommendations?
The Enduralast has fewer components so in the end, it would be the easiest to figure out for someone not comfortable with electrics:

1) Measure the battery voltage while the engine is running. Is it over 13 volts at about 2500 RPM? If so, everything is fine.

2) If it's not, unplug the Enduralast stator from the regulator. Start the engine. Measure between each of the three wires (AC scale). Do you have about 15-18VAC between ANY pair combination? If so the stator is good, replace the regulator rectifier unit.

3) If any pair of windings is not putting out full voltage, replace both components because there is no way for a mortal to check the regulator rectifier unit.

It's simple to troubleshoot but not cheap. So if the Enduralast fails, you're replacing about $400 worth of parts. By comparison, you'd spend a similar amount to replace a stator and rectifier/regulator on a Honda so it's not unreasonable--just not palatable to me.

OTOH, the stock and Omega systems use many inexpensive components but are more complicated to troubleshoot. IMO getting rid of the stock diode board and ground jumper harness fixes all of the "problems" with the stock system. Beyond that, it's a reliable design. The Omega is just more output.

All the talk about brushes is just whining. As I posted before, every car on the road uses the exact same design. If brush wear really weighs heavy on somebody's mind, check them before a long trip and carry a spare set.

Originally Posted by rockt
Also, would mounting the reg./rec. where it gets lots of airflow decrease the odds of it failing and causing the stator windings to overheat?
I went to GREAT trouble to move the second rectifier on my 86 Goldwing to test that theory. They regularly failed at 60K intervals. After running 8 gauge wire to the back of the bike, I mounted the rectifier to the back of the license plate bracket. It didn't help a thing.

That one failed at 60K as well (with no warning--and the bike had a stock digital voltmeter). THAT is exactly why I am so opposed to fixed magnet charging systems. We've debated this to death. I just wanted to jump in and present an opposing view.
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