Joined: Nov 2013
Mexico by Motorcycle ... in 1981
Mexico by Motorcycle ... in 1981
Younger riders might chuckle at some photos of touring in Mexico thirty years ago pre-GPS (paper maps), pre-cellphone (phone booths), pre-Internet (public library), pre-Lonely Planet (South American Handbook, People's Guide to Mexico), pre-Facebook (postcards), pre-ATM (traveler's cheques), and pre-digicam (Ektachrome 200). Older riders might wince. These are mostly photos from the highway, or where the street scene today will be different.
In 1979 Ted Simon published Jupiter's Travels and I had just read it. The Mexican Baja highway had only been open for a few years. By 1981 my 1974 motorbike had taken me to every Canadian province, territory, and US state (except Hawaii) so it was time for something more adventurous on it. Mexico beckoned.
The route, about 11,000 kilometers, the thick red line:
The black lines are other trips made on the same bike, drawn on this paper map decades ago.
The 1974 BMW R75/6 carried nearly its own weight in accessories, riders (two), and equipment. In the red bags are Eddie Bauer sleeping bags, Thermarest air mattresses, and a Sears tent. They were used in the USA, but not in Mexico - it was too hot, dusty, or unsafe to camp in the open.
The entire trip was planned on photocopied map segments, which were pulled out one by one. Starting mileage on the bike: 65,454 miles (106,000 km). The only problem with paper maps was navigating inside and out of big cities, such as Guadalajara.
Riding to Mexico
The wire antenna in front of the red bag was the antenna for the homemade security system. This silent alarm went off again and again when children tried to climb on the bike in Mexico. It was clever, but a bike cover would have been more effective!
Mexican farm workers harvesting the crop at dawn near Castroville, California.
Pacific Coast Highway #1 near Big Sur (Bixby Bridge):
Vintage T-shirt; Phil Funnell was at that time the largest BMW bike dealer in Canada and a well-known long-distance motorcycle tourer.
The Baja highway just after passing through Tijuana:
Almost no traffic. Wonderful. It was my first ride outside North America and it felt like high adventure.
I don't have a photo of the inside of a Baja cafe, but I do have permission to use this superb drawing (c)1979 by People's Guide To Mexico (www.peoplesguide.com):
This is exactly what roadside eateries were like ... and hot! No TV on the wall, no muzak; drop a coin in the Wurlitzer.
The Vizcaino desert
Sea salt factory:
Guerrero Negro motel. It was so windy during the afternoon that the bike set off the motion alarm several times, despite the bike being in the motel courtyard.
The Baja morning was surprisingly cold and foggy, but only for an hour:
Ride to Santa Rosalia
Overnight Ferry to Guaymas
I slept on deck next to the people in the photo, and in the morning we were all streaked with soot. I popped a float bowl off the bike and washed my face and hands with gasoline.
This hombre is cool:
Los Mochis and Topolobampo
Note the party-line telephone wires on the left:
One of my favorite photos, shot from the seat of the motorcycle:
The ceiling fan was so low the steel blades nearly chopped off my fingers. They were bleeding and bruised after I reached up while removing my T-shirt:
Ride to Guadalajara
Agave Azul farm next to the town of Tequila:
Hacienda d Cobos Hotel:
Guanajuato's Mercado Hidalgo:
Volkswagen was still producing Beetles in 1981:
The last Beetle manufactured anywhere rolled off an assembly line in Mexico in 2003.
Tortilla maker ... it's HOT in there:
Museo de las Momias de Guanajuato:
Guanajuato is a pleasant university town:
But on the other side of the tracks:
Note the preponderance of pickup trucks. The same spot today, courtesy of Google Earth:
Only the Relojeria (jewelry shop) behind my motorcycle seems still to be in business in the same location.
Plaza de Toros Alejandra in Durango:
The man in the window of the ancient church liked the BMW:
"¡Muy bonita moto, señor!" he said.
Ride to Juarez
Good roads, no traffic.
70,000 miles (113,000 km) on the odometer, highway 45 south of Juarez:
Navigating with the paper maps ... lost again:
Child discount cigarette vendors opposite the Juarez cathedral near the border crossing:
The border guard at Juarez was very friendly:
In this photo the plastic bubble mounted over the headlight to protect it from flying rocks is visible.
It was good to be camping again:
It was nearly freezing in the morning. The bike cranked very slowly and would not start: I had filled the engine with straight SAE 40W oil to protect it during hot desert riding; it was too viscous at low temperatures. Even the kick-starter (remember kick-starters?) couldn't get the bike going. I put my Optimus gasoline campstove under the motorcycle, heated the engine's oil pan for half an hour, then used jumper cables belonging to a pickup truck owner to start it. I switched to 20W-50 multigrade oil after that!
The trip consumed one front tire, two rear tires, and three oil changes, all do-it-yourself. Motorcycle tire life and engine service intervals were short in those days.
When I showed the photos to my good friend in Vancouver it inspired him to ride to Mexico the following year on his BMW R60/5. On that ride he met a Mexicana; they became penpals (pre-Skype). My second ride to Mexico was in 1984 to witness their wedding in Tepic. Thirty years later they are still married (and he still has the R60/5).