Rest of the Nullarbor
After a night of camping under the amazing star-spattered sky of the Nullarbor Plains, we had a little bit of raindrops in the morning. John ( Squily
) told me before the Nullarbor Plains should be an area lacking in rain :)
We packed our belongings and rode together a little further to the camels tanks, a rain water catchment facility build nearly a 100 years ago to supply the camel coaches they used in the Nullarbor for the transportation of goods.
We said goodbye to each other and promised to see us again at the Flinders Ranges Classic in April. John gave me his little cooling bag as leaving present, because I mentioned I should get one as well when I saw his the day before.
Johns ride report about the trip http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....4&postcount=52
Since John had provided me a lot of GPS tracks for the whole Nullarbor I took a little detour to visit the coastline.
I needed nearly 7 hours to finish the 160 km of the detour and get to the Caiguna Roadhouse. I filled the tank, again for cheap 2.10$ per litre, had an ice cream and went on to the bitumen to get kilometres done. But I did a little detour to visit the Cocklebiddy Cave.
At the Cocklebiddy Roadhouse I had a shower and the motorcycle 4 L of premium gas for only 2.14$ the litre.
Near the roadhouse I tried to visit three other caves but I couldn't find the entrance of two and the third looked to steep. For the night I camped at one of the many free rest areas along the Eyre Highway. The next day I stayed on the bitumen for a little bit longer. From Madura Roadhouse (2.12$) I went to Mundrabilla Roadhouse (only 91 octan fuel available) for another ice cream stop. At Mundrabilla I used on of Johns tracks to get to the next roadhouse.
I thought I could go all the way to the coast but I ended up in an (I think) Aboriginal community.
So turned around and used the 4WD track to get through the Roe Plain to the ruins of an old telegraph station.
Round about one kilometre before I arrived the track was going through sand dunes. I hat crossing sand dunes because I still feel uncomfortable doing it. But I didn't wont to go back and take a 3-kilometre detour ;) So I had to go.
After 2/3 of the way through the sand dunes I started to smell burning plastic. I turned around and couldn't see may plastic fuel can anymore. One of the belts had loosened itself and now the jerrycan hanging on the side of my bike toughing the hot exhaust pipe. Luckily there was only a very small amount of fuel left in the can.
Anyway, I managed to get to the ruins ;)
After a short break in the air-conditioned Eucla Roadhouse I went on to cross the border between Western Australia and South Australia.
Arriving in SA a left the Eyre Highway again to use the Old Eyre Highway.
I stayed on the Old Eyre Highway until the abandoned Koonalda Roadhouse.
But then I wanted to see the coast one more time.
For the night I stayed again at one of the free rest areas.
The next morning I didn't leave the bitumen anymore to get some distance done and so I arrived in Ceduna the first real city in SA. The first thing I did was going into a tourist information centre to get new free maps of the area, than buying some groceries and I was gone. I ended up at the local campground in Smoky Bay a little fishing village.
They have nothing special in Smoky Bay but ousters. I bought 25 ousters for 14$ the best price I have seen so far.
After opening the first one I realised I was too lazy to do it the same way with the other 24. I put them on the BBQ and ate them with bacon and BBQ-sauce. Really good!
The next day took me to Streaky Bay where I went onto a tourist drive following the coastline and back into the town.
I bought some more foodstuffs and went on to get to Walters Rock. I camped there for two nights because of bad weather and bad stomach :(