I installed a pair of Long Range Optimus LED Aux (round) lights
I had a pair of Rigid Dualy's on my 990 and moved them (old 990 harness I had made worked ok), but didn't like the fact that I couldn't get them mounted level on the crash bars because of their uneven un-symmetric nature. So I decided to get round bezel LEDs and move the rigid lights to my 690.
First step is to mount the lights.
I bought the Cyclops bar mounts and had to do extra shimming to fit the KTM crash bars.
I bought the harness with the Skene dimmer (no switch) as I planned to use the high beam switch to control the the lights at max brightness with high beam on and single (programmable) level with low beam. The harness had to be cut down a bit as I initially planned to use the switched ACC2 circuit to power the lights.
I tapped the high beam wire (blue wire) behind the head light connector and did a test fitting to see if there was room behind the head light for all the components and wire harness.
I noticed that there was an opening in the lower head light mounts for the lower portion of the LED harness to pass from inside the head light enclosure to behind the surface body plastic. The length of the lower portion of the harness was a perfect match for the crash bar mounting. You can see the ACC2 connectors in the right of this photo (brown is ground).
You can feed the wire harness through a hidden passage by pulling the plastic out a bit.
Routing the harness between the tank and the inner plastic.
I used spade connectors (female at signal source) to make the harness totally plug-in (with the exception of the tap of the high beam wire). I planned to power the lights and Skene dimmer with the ACC2 power (10 amp) Red LED power wire, Skene Yellow and Red wires, but couldn't get that to work. Darryl suggested that I bring the LED power and Ground from the battery, so a second harness was built to do that. Don't know why the first setup didn't work especially since the Rigid Dualy lights worked fine (with a separate switch) using the ACC2 power and ground. Might be something with the way KTM CAN bus system powers up the ACC2 circuit which the Skene didn't like when all the Skene Yellow, Red, and LED power were all connected to the same power source.
The final mounting of the Skene, fuse, harness. I changed the harness fuse to 5 amps from 30 since I didn't want to weld anything with an inadvertent short.
The leds are 10 watt and the Skene draws .o1 amp, so 5 is enough.
Plastic back on. Haven't ridden with the LEDs yet (my seat is at James Renazco's place getting the front cut-out removed and other changes).
Detail of plastic covering the wiring harness.
Overall I like the lights and features but the installation was more work than I anticipated because I had to remove the tank to install the LED power harness from the battery. I expect to use 50% dimming with the low beams but that is easily changed in 10% increments.
I've had questions for additional explanation of my wiring setup for this installation, so I'm adding some additional comments.
I prefer to use my pictures to explain how I used 6mm (1/4") spade connectors in the wiring harness I built. The connectors provided in the Skene dimmer kit are not, in my opinion, as reliable as the automotive spade connecters I used because they rely on cutting through the insulation of wires without cutting the wire itself. My harness only uses one such connector (but a different style) to attach a wire to the blue wire (high beam signal) just behind the head light connector. The attached wire is red, as is the attaching connector (seen above the headlight connector) and has a 6mm female spade connector. The convention I use (which is the same as used by KTM on the ACC1 and ACC2 connectors) is that signal sources have female connectors.
You can also see the ACC2 connection female connectors (brown is ground, the other is switched 12 volt power)
I didn't photograph the final harness, but the following picture is almost final. I will explain the changes.
The Skene dimmer contains an electronic relay for switching on a circuit (LEDs in this case) as well as circuitry to do PWM of the power to provide dimming of the LEDs. In the picture, notice that the two blue wires from the Skene. They plug into the two black wires coming from the LEDs. Since they are a ground source (the Skene relay switches ground), they have female connectors. The next white wire is the high beam input to the Skene. It plugs into the female connector of the red wire (attached to the blue high beam wire) in the first picture. The white wire has a male connector.
Next, the two black wires from the Skene are both attached to a male connector. This connector is plugged into the ground wire of a second simple harness which I do not have a picture of. That shouldn't be a problem because it is just a pair of wires (I used red for 12 volt, black for ground) which attach to the battery terminals. Since this harness provides power and ground sources, they have female connectors. The two black wires from the Skene connector plug into the ground wire from the battery.
Now I explain how the harness in the second picture differs from the final harness I used. Notice that the one remaining connector has the red power wire going to the LEDs and the red and yellow wires from the Skene crimped together. This has been separated into two male connectors. First, the red wire going to the LEDs has its own male connector which plugs into the red 12 volt wire coming from the battery. The remaining two wires from the Skene are crimped in a male connector which is plugged into the 12 volt ACC2 connector behind the head light. This provides power to the Skene dimmer itself and sets the yellow programming wire to +12 which is initially programmed to be 50% dimming (but can be easily changed to any other value in 10% increments following the Skene instructions). Attaching the red Skene wire to ACC2 insures that the Skene will not have a parasitic draw on the battery when the ignition is off. Also, the lights will be turned off when the ignition is turned off.
The only place where my setup touches the KTM wiring is the red wire attached to the blue high beam wire. If you use the connectors provided with the Skene kit there will be several more such connections. The way I have done this will not affect the US warranty. I doubt that it would in your locale either.