Originally Posted by K2ride
Laping the shims worked for me & a regular bolt works fine as a tdc tool.
Take special care as to have each cam in it`s proper place & position (front/rear exhaust/intake); they may not be in their proper place initially & it is of importance. If so
, find the last guy who did the valve job on your ride & kick him in the balls; it may not solve the problem but you`ll feel better & then procede to disassemble the cams and reassemble in their proper position, run the engine & then take the valve clearance measurements & do adjustments. You can pretty much add a day to the job waiting for the engine to cool off completely before starting over again so you might want to kick the guy twice while your at it!
Since I'm going to be at your house at 4 am on Saturday for my tire change, why don't you just knock out his little project while you are in there?
I'll buy the donuts...
Thanks to everyone's reply, I really appreciate the hints and tips. I think I will be doing one head at a time, replacing the cams without shims, so I have all out at the same time, but not two heads apart at the same time. If that makes any sense.
I will try to locate the cyl head nut tool, but unlikely with my timeframe. Anyone want to send me theirs for future beer IOUs?
I am actually looking forward to this job. I dove into the bike two weeks ago to ascertain the status of the water pump, been into the side covers and under the fuel tanks so many times I could do it blindfolded. While I do have a nice extended warranty, the feeling of empowerment knowing the internal workings of the bike makes me love it even more. And certainly quells the queasiness when little gremlins crop up.
Full write up & pics with everyones commentary should provide a nice hall of wisdom submittal. You're a good group, Charlie Browns.