View Single Post
Old 11-21-2006, 08:32 AM   #9
meat popsicle
Ignostic
 
meat popsicle's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Circumlocution Office of Little Dorrit
Oddometer: 14,152
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill
...
Meat is right about the torque idea but no way could I lock the sprocket by myself and use a torque wrench. Not even sure I would have trusted a torque wrench for that application.
I replaced the bolt(pre loctited) and washer and used the 3/8 drive airwrench and just let it hammer.
....
I can do it by myself

You simply leave tightening the CS bolt for last, use your foot to depress the rear brake, which will hold everything nice and still while you torque the bugger down to the correct setting. This is also how I get the mutha off, but doing the CS bolt first. All this and more in my thread on changing the chain and sprockets.

I would guess, with some certainty that an air hammer, left to its own devices, could easily stretch the bolt and make it prone to failure. Bad idea Bill.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zerodog
I don't really like the spring washer deal. I think it might be better to have a real lock washer type assembly with a highgrade bolt. I will take some pics of what I come up with.
The spring washer is NOT optional! The spring washer applies the correct pressure to the seal behind the CS sprocket, which keeps oil inside your engine... plenty of threads from folks who get a leaky countershaft, and it is finally traced to a weak spring washer or an aftermarket CS sprocket that is too thin.

Regarding the bolt: I guess a high grade bolt would be fine, but I always wonder if the designers specified a lower grade bolt so that it would fail prior to damaging what it fastens
__________________
Kronreif Trunkenpolz Mattighofen LC4 640

Its not so much staying alive; its staying human that counts.
meat popsicle is offline   Reply With Quote