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Old 01-26-2007, 10:35 PM   #26
motoged OP
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Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Kamloops, BC
Oddometer: 865
Now.....where was I? Oh, yeah.....riding up out of Isla Requeson and heading south on the highway to the south end of Concepcion.

This area is flat and often windy. Remnants of a trailer park or something punctuate the beach and, with a few options of double-track, lead a rider eastward to a few forks in the road....one which leads northward up along the west side of this spectacular peninsula....and one which leads eastward to San Sebastion and then San Nicholas...I wanted Darren to enjoy some of the whoopy winding double track leading north, so we turned left....

Before long, we passed some fishcamps where the clam shell middens are impressive....




I am not sure which type of clams these are, but I will guess that they are what they call chocolate ( "choko..latte") ...years ago when I first saw them, I thought they were scallops...






I particularly like this northern ride as it is often like slalom skiing...the curves and whoops are manageable and a rider can set up a good rythm ...



We rode only several miles north as we wanted to give ourselves enough time in case we would hook up with a Baja Nomad (Vgabndo) in San Nicholas as he promised a beer if we showed up with our noisy bikes ...

We took a break and some pics just north of a small dry lakebed...














At one point in time I glanced over at Darren while we were both taking pics and I saw him crouched behind a shrub and he was motioning me to move away. At first I assumed he was squatting and giving birth to a Republican, so I looked away and sauntered out of his "space".....I later learned that he was taking a pic of some phallic cactus.....




Later, I caught him praying or communicating with extraterrestrials...



When I ride the GS, I usually carry a squashed beer can to place under the sidestand in loose terrain ...w/ the KTM I usually look for a stone or piece of wood...



In Baja, strong sticks are more difficult to find and mostly one finds skeletal innards of chollo or other cactus...




It was fun playing on the harder packed sand in that area....more often the sand was looser and offered less traction...



We motored south back to the fork in the road that would take us out to San Sebastion on the east coast of the peninsula....

This ride is on hard-pack and winds over an alto-plano before it drops you down into a canyon arroyo and eventually spits you out into a remarkable oasis leading to the exquisite circular bay of San Sebastion...






This bay is ringed with a dozen or so homes inhabited by some lucky gringos....itr is a long way in from the highway, but is a place I would give my left huevo for to have a spot...



We backtracked into the palm canyon and rode up a washed out road which leads to San Nicholas. The road was only rough for the uphill to the following improvement...








Bahia San Nicholas beckons and offers some future riding...and hopefully a beer with Vgabndo...





But I must tell a tale from my last Baja ride .... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...hlight=motoged
that connects with this one ....

In March '05, I shared the trip with some guys and it was our first time to San Sebastion. By looking at the map, it was a no-brainer that I had to check it out. The four of us rode into the small community and I was wanting a bit more gas to fill up the Clark tank. I asked a fellow working on a backhoe if any was to be had and he pointed towards a house on the north side of the bay that had a few fellows building a stone wall in front of an impressive "beach cabin"....

He indicated that he thought he could ask around and, before he could, his workmate offered the four of us three cans of Coke...a gesture appreciated by the four of us thirsty riders (better flavor than CamelBAck stuff). As we were passing the cola amongst us, another gringo approached us with four cans of cold beer and, with a great smile, said...."Years ago when I was riding around down here I thought it would be so cool if I rode into a place like this and someone just walked up and offered me a cold beer! So here you guys are...."

We all grokked the value of his gesture....Big Time !!!!!!!!!!!

And as we slurped the beer (I got two as one of the guys didn't drink beer) two other gringos approached us...one was about 6'3'' it seemed and he was giving us a wary eye...his buddy seemed friendlier and I asked if he knew if I could get some gas....he said "I can get you some....my place is that one over there". We all chatted for a short while and I motored over to the guy's place.

A roomy "surfer house" was adorned with fishing gear and a range of other stuff. Outside in his "garage" area, he had a range of fuel containers.
The one that I noticed was opaque rotomoulded plastic like my Clark tank and was about a cubic meter in size. I enquired if it was boat gas and he said, "Those are gas cans that the smugglers use and that they throw overboard when they are empty".

WELL>>>> my ears perked up and I said, "I don't want to be uncool, but what could you tell me about smuggling here?"....as, being a worldly fellow, I knew that the Baja is a major pipeline for dope coming out of the Copper Canyon area and other mainland states across the Sea of Cortez.

The fellow was generous enough to offer the following tale:

"The smugglers use solid-hulled Zodiacs with three Honda 250 horse motors to bring across bales of pot and heroin from the mainland. As they use up their fuel they just throw these fuel cells overboard. When we are out in our pangas fishing we sometimes find them floating so we pick them up and sometimes use them."
"I wasn't here earlier in the winter", he continued, "but one night some of the folks here heard a helicopter overhead for a few minutes and it left after what sounded like it was backfiring. When they woke up in the morning they saw one of these zodiacs up on the beach full to the gunwhales with bales of dope....and one guy dead on the beach with a machine gun beside him and one guy dead spread on top of the bales.
That morning the Federales came in with a big truck and hauled all the stuff away."
"Sometimes we might be out fishing and the Federale helicopter will fly right over us about 50 feet and check to see what is in our pangas....their 50 calibers make me a bit nervous."


Now, THAT is a great Baja story if you ask me

When we returned this year I looked for the guy and he was sitting in the sun at the back of his place looking real relaxed. I took my helmet off and said, "I just wanted to say thanks again for the gas last year and introduce my friend to the guy who told me the smuggler story so he wouldn't think I was bullshitting!",,,and i walked over to shake his hand and reintroduce myself.



Yep, San Sebastion would be a great place to spend some time
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Ged Schwartz
Kamloops , BC


Baja '05 , Baja 06/07 , Baja 08/09 , BC Alpine Single Track





motoged screwed with this post 01-26-2007 at 11:44 PM
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